Columnist Muriel Stevens: ‘Tis the season: Truffles’ fungus is among us

Friday, Nov. 10, 2000 | 10:17 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun.com or 259-4080.

Like the dogs who sniff out the white truffles in Italy at this time of year, I can sense when the earthy delights have arrived in Las Vegas. I can't explain my affection for this rare and expensive fungus that grows under the roots of trees, mostly oaks. I only know that the pungent, complex flavor of the white truffle is one of my favorite things.

Truffle season is short, from late-fall to mid-winter. That's part of the allure. My last visit to Italy was timed for truffle season. I ate enough pasta and risotto covered with fragrant truffles to sustain me until the next season.

This year, without going abroad, I satisfied my craving for white truffles at Circo at Bellagio. The truffles had just arrived. My timing was perfect. With a dining companion in tow who shares my fondness for the pricey fungus, I made my way to Bellagio. We discussed what we would eat. Should we do pasta or risotto? Risotto was our choice. It was a chilly night. We would share Circo's wonderful 30-vegetable soup.

Our plan changed slightly when we learned fresh Florida stone crabs had arrived that day. We split an order. The stone crab claws had been cracked; most of the shell had been removed, making them easy to eat without the usual struggle to extricate the meat. Circo's chef de cuisine Enzo Secci makes an excellent creamy mustard sauce with whole grain mustard that's perfect with the stone crab.

We could smell the distinctive aroma of the truffle before the risotto reached our table. The creamy surface was covered with shavings of truffle that had melted into the rice. This sublime dish comes in both appetizer ($45) and entree size ($75). The price depends on the price per pound of the truffles. Later Circo and Le Cirque Executive Chef Marc Poidevin brought to our table two of the tennis ball-size truffles he had received that day. They weighed in at 8 ounces each and cost $900!

A week later I returned for lunch and got to taste Chef Enzo's exceptional pasta made with farro flour. Farro is an ancient nutrition-rich grain that is back in favor (look for it in health-food stores). The nutty-flavored, wide noodles are served with a light butter-based sauce ($28) and can be topped with truffles. A memorable pasta dish.

For a perfect ending have one of the new fruit desserts created by Pastry Chef Gregory Gourreau. Light and refreshing and just right after an indulgent meal.

Winemaker dinner at UNLV: Gustav Mauler, owner of Spiedini and Oxo restaurants, will sponsor a winemaker dinner at UNLV's Harrah College of Hotel Administration Nov. 16. The gifted master chef will supervise the students and help prepare a six-course dinner. The price is $50 per person, wines included.

A cash bar will open at 6 p.m.; dinner will begin at 6:30 p.m. Reservations and deposits must be made at least 72 hours before the dinner. For reservations call Judy Feliz at 895-1330. Credit cards are accepted.

Venetian restaurant celebrates 45 years: One of our town's oldest restaurants, Venetian Ristorante, will celebrate its 45th anniversary Nov. 15. Diners will receive cake and a glass of wine to commemorate the day. The Venetian was founded in 1955 by the original owners, Angie and Lou Ruvo. The restaurant's first location was on East Fremont Street.

Later the Ruvos moved the venerable eatery to its current location at 3713 W. Sahara Ave. In 1997 Tom D'Antonio purchased the Venetian. D'Antonio has made some changes in the decor, but has retained the traditions and relaxed ambience of the past along with the favorite Southern Italian cuisine.

Short orders

Proceeds will benefit the Wines From Spain Rioja Scholarship in collaboration with the James Beard Foundation. For tickets call 866-RIOJA00 or log on to RiojaSpain.com.

From the rotisserie: broiled pork chops, rosemary pork loin, stuffed veal breast and salmon. Other stations include suckling pig, leg of lamb, spiral sausage, Italian cuisine and salads and appetizers from the Pacific Rim.

The Firelight Buffet is just one of many new features soon to open at Sam's Town.