Columnist Muriel Stevens: Expect famed restaurant to command attention

Friday, Nov. 3, 2000 | 10:19 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun.com or 259-4080.

If all goes according to plan the long-awaited opening of Commander's Palace in the Desert Passage at the Aladdin will take place Sunday at 6 p.m. for dinner.

It has not been an easy time for Brad Brennan, one of a new generation of the renowned restaurant family of New Orleans. Brennan, who moved to Las Vegas with his family, has managed to survive all sorts of unexpected complications that kept the restaurant from opening on schedule.

Now with all that behind him, he is devoting the days before the opening to fine-tuning the kitchen. And, as he said, "creolizing" the staff.

"It's hard to creolize 150 people in a few days." Brennan describes creolizing as good-old Southern hospitality. "We give our customers whatever they want, if it's at all possible."

Expounding a little more on the Brennan family philosophy, the young restaurateur said, "If you don't want the sauce, we'll omit it. Want mashed potatoes instead of another side dish? We'll cook them."

Sounds like something most restaurants would do to please a diner, but less-flexible eateries often resist any menu changes requested by guests.

It will take a little while for all the pieces to fall into place, but Brennan appears to be on the right track. Dinner only, Sunday and Monday. Starting Tuesday lunch will be served. Hours are: lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; afternoon snacks, 2:30-4:30 p.m.; dinner, 6-11 p.m.

Eventually a New Orleans brunch will be added. They're already working on the separate brunch menu. With a little luck and a lot of hard work the opening of Commander's Palace, Las Vegas, should take place Monday.

I've dined at the New Orleans Commander's Palace a few times and have loved everything about it. The Las Vegas branch, Brennan says, will be just as pleasing.

Bec Fin returns: Andre's French Restaurant, at 401 S. 6th Street, is once again presenting the Bec Fin Society dinners. After a three-year hiatus, the longtime premium wine and dinner series has returned. The new format gives diners more flexibility. The first dinner took place Thursday night. There is a dinner tonight and one Saturday night. Reservations are still available.

Wines from the critically acclaimed Babcock winery in the Santa Ynez Valley (California) will accompany each course. Dinner and wines are $99 (tax and gratuity not included). The seven courses include: chilled celery-root and English-pea soup, Maine lobster sausage with crayfish sauce and risotto-style pasta, sauteed venison medallion with roasted chestnuts and an apple compote, pomegranate granite, braised veal cheeks with creamed spinach and roasted sunchokes, and assorted imported and domestic cheeses.

For dessert: profiteroles filled with chestnut ice cream and chocolate and caramel sauces. For reservations for this veritable feast call 385-5016.

Jacques Torres at Ethel M: Chocolate lovers take note. Internationally acclaimed pastry chef Jacques Torres is coming to Las Vegas. Torres was formerly with Le Cirque-New York for 12 years. His "Dessert Circus" TV show seen on PBS (KLVX Channel 10) was one of my favorites.

He now has his own sweet business and will appear here Thursday at the Ethel M Chocolates factory in Henderson, where right before your very eyes he will create a fountain made of chocolate. While you watch the making of this extraordinary creation you'll be enjoying complimentary hot chocolate and Ethel M chocolates. This is an exciting event, and it's free to everyone.

The following day, as part of the opening celebration of Ethel M's newest store in the Galleria at Sunset, Torres will unveil his chocolate fountain and give brief demonstrations to those attending.

Ethel M's Galleria store is on the upper level across from the food court. While there, register to win a "Tower of Ethel M Chocolates" and autographed books from Torres. And be sure to pick up a holiday gift catalog. Ethel M's gift packages are gorgeous.

Short Orders

The Fireside Cafe offers breakfast all day, lunch from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Prime rib, lobster and fresh fish are featured on the dinner menu, 4-11 p.m. Southern fried chicken, country fried steak, pasta and steaks are offered. Silverton is 3 miles south of the Strip, at Interstate 15 and Blue Diamond Road.