Columnist Muriel Stevens: Wine & Spirits Focus registers a smashing success

Friday, May 26, 2000 | 9:04 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun.com or 259-4080.

"Splendid" is the best way to describe Bon Appetit magazine's Wine & Spirits Focus at the Venetian and Mandalay Bay. This was the 11th annual event nationally and the second one that included Las Vegas.

Jump-starting the weekend's activities was the Grand Tasting on Friday night, poolside at the Venetian. So what makes a tasting "Grand"? Gather some of the most renowned names in the culinary world to offer sensational food and interact with the guests, create a marvelous setting and you're bound to have a winner.

Among those who delighted foodies with their dishes were: Charlie Palmer (Aureole), Michael Mina (Aqua), Eberhard Muller (Lutece), Todd English (Olives), Jean Joho (Eiffel Tower), Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken (Border Grill), Marc Poidevin and Brian Konopka (Le Cirque), Sean Roe (Emeril's), Kevin Wu (Royal Star), Joseph Bennett (Chinois), Stephan Pyles (Star Canyon), John Lagrone (Postrio) Jean-Louis Palladin (Napa), Alessandro Stratta (Renoir) and so many more.

More than 100 wines, spirits and microbrews were offered. There was so much to see, eat and imbibe. The selection of foods was terrific, everything from sushi to mussel shooters, and everything in between. Such wonderful flavors, food combinations and exhibits. The displays were glorious. Leaving the party with a French bread securely tucked under my arm (a gift to all guests from the Eiffel Tower restaurant) was the final touch to a wonderful food event.

The next day guests were able to participate in a number of workshops and tastings: Art of Restaurant Criticism, Dim Sum and Tea Tasting, Wine and Food Pairing, Mexican Home Cooking, Sushi and Sake, Vodka and Caviar and Bread and Pastry. The sessions were divided between the Venetian and Mandalay Bay. The Focus wrapped up on Sunday with a gospel brunch at the House of Blues.

After participating in the Art of Restaurant Criticism at Aureole with fellow critic Michael Bauer of the San Francisco Chronicle, restaurateurs Charlie Palmer, Alex Stratta and Eberhard Muller and Bon Appetit Editor-in-Chief Bill Garry, who was the moderator, Bauer and I dashed over to the Dim Sum and Tea session at Royal Star at the Venetian.

Kevin Wu, the culinary genius behind Royal Star, was a most gracious host, describing the various teas and the dim sum: a pear-shaped potato dumpling with a stem of crisp bacon; a spicy lobster-filled "purse" tied with strings of Chinese chives and capped with bright orange crab roe; Tai Chi, a steamed, translucent dumpling with a shrimp and spinach filling; and a rice paper and toasted sesame roll wrapped around delicate sole.

Wu is a bold chef who has taken the ancient art of dim sum to a new level. The dumplings we ate are on the menu of dim sum offered daily.

The teas sipped with the dim sum were equally exciting: lichee-rose, a fragrant brew of black tea leaves enhanced with lichee juice and rose petals (a few lichee berries floated in the cup); an assertive Monkey-Picked Iron Buddha -- the leaves grow high on a mountain, monkeys are trained to pick them; a highly-prized oolong valued for its rich, lingering aftertaste; Jasmine Downy Pearl, made of choice green tea with a jasmine infusion -- the tea is hand-rolled into tiny pearl-like rounds; and Yunnan Pu-erh, made from long-fermented, large-leafed Yunnan tea.

Of course there were many other food-related activities. Bon Appetit's Wine & Spirits Focus events are about more than food. Each of the Focus events around the country benefit Make-a-Wish Foundation. A portion of the Las Vegas proceeds will go to the Las Vegas chapter of the Make-a-Wish Foundation, which grants wishes of terminally ill children.

Las Vegas is now a regular part of the schedule for Bon Appetit Focus, which will take place again next year. Other Focus events will be held in New York, Sept. 12; Los Angeles, Oct. 15; Chicago, Oct. 27; Atlanta in November; and San Francisco in February. Tickets are limited. For more information call (888) 343-6287 (888-34FOCUS).

Chinois vegetarian menu: Wolfgang Puck's Chinois in the Forum Shops at Caesars has introduced a new vegetarian menu, "to address our many vegetarian requests," said managing partner Tom Kaplan. Chinois has, upon request, always adapted dishes to a vegetarian's style of eating. The small menu is "designed to be vegan," said Chinois Executive Chef Joseph Bennett. "But we can add ingredients for lacto-vegetarians or any kind of vegetarian. We'll add anything you want."

Bennett suggests the sampler plate that includes spicy eggplant, dry-fried green beans and crispy tofu with garlic. Of course, you can make up your own sampler plate. According to the chef, sushi vegetable rolls are very hot, too. Five are already on board and the sushi chef can make many more. More noodle dishes will be added, and the kitchen is experimenting with making its own tofu. Appetizers, salads (including Chinese without chicken), entrees and sides make up the menu. Prices range from $10-$18. Portions are generous.

Chinois serves lunch and dinner daily: Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Reservations are recommended, but not required. Call 737-9700.

Remember food safety if you're cooking at home this holiday weekend. Have a happy one.