World of eggs an interesting one to explore

Wednesday, May 17, 2000 | 9:36 a.m.

Muriel Stevens writes about food and shopping for the Sun. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun.com or 259-4080.

"The Good Egg" by Marie Simmons (Houghton Mifflin Co., $26) is a terrific tribute to the long overlooked egg.

For too long the incredible egg has gotten a bum rap. Now the truth is out. No longer do we have to be concerned about enjoying eggs (unless our doctor says no). Eggs are an inexpensive complete source of protein, low in calories and endlessly versatile.

New nutritional information affirms that eggs can be included in a healthy diet.

More than 235 recipes from soups to desserts, "will inspire you to get cracking!"

Simmons shares tips and techniques to show you "eggsactly" how to hard-cook, poach, fry and cook with eggs.

It's not eggzagerating to say that this is a very useful book with a point of view that all egg lovers will appreciate.

Chevre, Dill and Chive Stuffed Eggs

4 large eggs, hard-cooked, peeled and halved lengthwise

2 1/2 oz mild, creamy goat cheese, at room temperature

2 Tbs unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 1/2 tsp minced fresh dill

1 1/2 tsp minced fresh chives

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Fresh dill sprigs and/or minced fresh chives for garnish

1. Carefully remove the yolks from the whites. Place the whites cut side up on a plate. With the back of a spoon, press the yolks through a sieve into a small bowl, or mash them in a bowl with a fork. Add the goat cheese, butter, minced dill, 1 1/2 teaspoons chives, a pinch of salt and a grinding of pepper. Mash with a fork until blended, then beat with a wooden spoon until the mixture is smooth and fluffy.

2. Using a teaspoon, carefully stuff the whites with the yolk mixture, mounding the tops. Garnish each stuffed egg with a tiny sprig of dill and/or a sprinkling of chives. Serve at room temperature or chilled. Makes 4 servings.

(Chevre is French goat cheese, which can be either creamy and mild or dry and pungent. Choose a creamy fresh cheese. I like dill but fresh thyme or a mixture of thyme and rosemary can be substituted. )

Spinach and Parmesan Cheese Souffle

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or fine dry bread crumbs for the souffle dish

1 10-oz bag fresh spinach, stemmed and rinsed, or 1 10-oz pkg frozen chopped spinach

3 Tbs unsalted butter

3 Tbs all-purpose flour

1 1/4 c. milk

1/2 tsp kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Freshly grated nutmeg

3 large eggs, separated, plus 1 large egg white, at room temperature

1/2 c. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1/4 tsp cream of tartar

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400 F. Generously butter a 6-to-7-cup souffle dish. Sprinkle lightly with cheese or bread crumbs, shaking the dish to coat evenly.

2. If using fresh spinach, steam it in a steamer basket set in a saucepan over 1 inch of boiling water until wilted, about 3 minutes. Drain and let cool, then drain in a strainer, squeeze out the liquid and finely chop the spinach. You should have about 1 cup. Or, if using frozen spinach, cook it according to the package directions, let cool and squeeze dry. Press the spinach between layers of paper towels to remove more moisture. If it is coarsely chopped, chop it fine. Set aside.

3. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes. Gradually whisk in the milk and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Cook, stirring constantly for 3 minutes more. Add the salt, a grinding of pepper and nutmeg to taste. Remove from the heat.

4. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks until blended. Whisk in a little of the white sauce to temper the eggs, then add the remaining sauce, whisking until blended. Stir in the spinach and cheese.

5. Place the 4 egg whites in a large bowl, add the cream of tartar and beat slowly with an electric mixer until soft peaks form. Increase the speed to high and beat until the peaks are stiff and smooth.

6. Using a rubber spatula, transfer about one-third of the egg whites to the spinach mixture and gently fold in until blended. Add the remaining whites to the spinach mixture and gently fold in until blended. Pour into the prepared dish.

7. Put the souffle in the oven and reduce the temperature to 375 F. Bake until the souffle is puffed and golden, 30 to 35 minutes. If you like your souffle firm in the center, bake it for 5 minutes more. Serve at once. Makes 4 servings.

(The classic spinach souffle is often made with grated Swiss cheese, but freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano is even better, producing a lighter and more intensely flavored souffle and complementing the spinach nicely. Serve for dinner or lunch, with a side dish of roasted tomatoes and basil.)

Chocolate Kisses

1 1/2 c. hazelnuts

1 c. plus 2 Tbs confectioners sugar

1 Tbs unsweetened cocoa powder

1/4 tsp ground cinnamon

3 large egg whites, at room temperature

Pinch of kosher salt

1. Preheat the oven to 350 F. Spread the hazelnuts in a shallow baking pan and lightly toast in the oven, 10 to 15 minutes. Spread a clean kitchen towel on the counter and empty the hot nuts onto the towel. Let stand until cool. Reduce the oven temperature to 300 F.

2. Rub the hazelnuts with the towel to remove the loosened skins. Coarsely chop the nuts and set aside.

3. Butter and flour three baking sheets. Sift together the confectioners' sugar, cocoa powder and cinnamon. Set aside.

4. Beat the egg whites and salt in a large bowl with an electric mixer until the whites form stiff but not dry peaks. In three additions, sprinkle the sugar mixture over the whites and fold in gently. Sprinkle with the hazelnuts and gently fold to combine.

5. Drop the batter by level tablespoons about 2 inches apart onto the prepared baking sheets. Bake until dry to the touch but still soft, 14 to 15 minutes. Using a thin spatula, transfer the still warm cookies to a rack to cool. Makes 36 cookies.

(These crunchy little meringue cookies flavored with toasted hazelnuts, cocoa powder and ground cinnamon are known as spumette in Sicily. They're a favorite in Italian pastry shops in New York City's Little Italy. The late Richard Sax, beloved colleague and friend, shared this recipe with me many years ago.)