Columnist Muriel Stevens: Debut Dinner 2000 at Paris resort helps hospice

Friday, March 31, 2000 | 8:54 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun.com or 259-4080.

For wine aficionados a tasting of first growth (Premier Cru Classe) French wines would be reason enough to attend a $1,000 dinner. But the recent Debut Dinner 2000 at Paris Las Vegas was more than just the first stop of the First Growth tour, which showcased wines from Chateau Haut-Brion, Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Chateau Latour, Chateau Margaux and Chateau Mouton Rothschild.

This was the first time the Bordeaux tour had added Las Vegas to its list of cities. Dinners in San Francisco, New York City, Boston, Atlanta and Dallas that followed would cost considerably less. But the Las Vegas dinner was more than a hedonist's indulgence. A large part of the ticket price would be contributed to a local charity, the Nathan Adelson Hospice. It was the first time a First Growth dinner was paired with a worthy cause.

It was through the efforts of Larry Ruvo, senior managing director of Southern Wine and Spirits, and the support of the First Growth group and the Greenspun, Molasky, Ruvo, Schreck and Sullivan families that the evening was possible. All are longtime supporters of the Nathan Adelson Hospice.

It was an exciting event, made even more so by the guest of honor, Baroness Phillipine de Rothschild of Chateau Mouton Rothschild. The baroness is an enchanting woman, warm and witty. She owns several notable vineyards that have often been recognized for their exceptional grapes. During the evening Baroness de Rothschild was honored for her contribution to the wine industry.

The evening began with a champagne reception featuring Perrier-Jouet Fleur de Champagne 1995 and hot and cold hors d' oeuvres: Tuna tartare, steak tartare, eggplant caviar in mini brioche, duck confit, lobster thermidor, wild mushroom puffs, truffled brioche filled with braised oxtail and more.

The dining room was aglow with candlelight and the sparkle of wineglasses, 12 at each setting. It was a beautiful sight. We would taste the five 1997 Bordeaux with the third course -- a well-executed exotic mushroom and root vegetable tart; the five 1993 vintages, with the fifth -- medallions of veal with black truffles, porcini, puree of purple potatoes and baby vegetables.

The first and second courses, Dover sole "nested" on sea beans, and foie gras atop toasted brioche, were accompanied with a buttery Chardonnay, Aile d'Argent 1995.

A favorite wine of the evening was the Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1986 served with the cheese course.

Dessert was a tour de force for Pastry Chef Jean-Claude Cannestrier. Pulled sugar steps of various heights presented individual, delicate chocolate mousse cakes with raspberry sauce and a creamy sorbet. The pulled sugar creation was a work of art; the mousse was irresistible.

In between courses Larry and Irwin Molasky conducted a live auction that included a marvelous selection of full cases of the first growths we had tasted. Each of the cases included one bottle signed by the Chateau's owner, adding additional cachet to the purchase. Bidding was spirited for a trip to Paris that included a visit to Chateau Mouton Rothschild, a night at a five-star hotel, dinner at the exquisite Taillevent restaurant, lunch at Chateau Mouton Rothschild, and a personal guided tour of Chateaus Haut-Brion, Latour, Lafite Rothschild and Margaux. Indeed, a memorable experience.

A tip of the chapeau to Paris Las Vegas Executive Chef Olivier Breuil, Executive Director of Banquets and Catering Don Ross, Director of Food Services Michael Pergolini and Bob Zito, chief of food and beverage for a delightful dinner with service to match.

Short orders

Featured are the kitchens of home builder Richard and Wendy Plaster and Mandalay Resorts Group President and Chief Financial Officer Glenn Schaeffer, and his wife, Renee. By mere coincidence, both kitchens designed and built by Dean Marks of Ultimate Kitchens, Las Vegas with interior designer Anita Brooks. The shows will air at the end of April or early in May.