Columnist Muriel Stevens: Menu shifts enhance Le Cirque, Circo

Friday, March 17, 2000 | 10:27 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@vegas.com or 259-4080.

Seasonal menu changes at the French Le Cirque and its Italian sister, Circo, at Bellagio are now in place and they're wonderful. Executive Chef Marc Poidevin and Chef de Cuisine Brian Konopka are a terrific team.

A new version of Le Cirque's signature lobster salad appetizer is finished with a piquant truffle dressing. The original lobster salad was excellent; this one is even better.

There are a number of new main courses: roasted John Dory fish served en cocotte -- cooked in a casserole -- with braised baby vegetables and a light champagne sauce; roasted monkfish filet with celery root, roasted new potatoes, porcini mushrooms and herbs; grilled Arctic char layered with portobello mushrooms, peekietoe crab and basil; and superb French braised lamb chops with potatoes, caramelized onions and a "garden" of vegetables. The lamb is exceptional.

So are the new desserts created by Le Cirque and Circo Pastry Chef Patrice Caillot.

Caillot's take on the French classic oeuf a la neige (floating island) is a show stopper -- milk chocolate cream with lime and "islands" floating in coconut cream; Dome de Pommes, baked apple and almond mousse cake, Granny Smith sorbet and a sauce of apple cider; and a delicious layering of butter cookies, Buerre Nantais, with passion fruit cream, sauteed raspberries and champagne sorbet.

For the ultimate Le Cirque dinner, have a five-course tasting menu prepared "in harmony with the season" ($95 per person).

Dine at Le Cirque 5:30-10:30, daily. Reservations are requested. Call 693-8100.

Dinner or lunch at the Italian Circo is always delightful. Chef Enzo Secci's pastas are cooked perfectly. Among the new pasta choices are: handmade spinach "Spaghetti alla Chitarra" with tomatoes and basil; and two peerless personal favorites -- homemade pappardelle pasta with braised pheasant and black truffles, and Moscovy duck and Hudson Valley foie gras ravioli enhanced with white truffle. Utterly wonderful.

Among the many new seasonal entrees are: crispy Scottish salmon with sauteed spinach; Circo's own version of the magnificent lamb -- a pecorino and herb-crusted rack; grilled American red snapper with artichokes, cooked three ways; and a filet mignon with stuffed portobello, cardoon timbale and a Brunello wine and aged balsamic vinegar reduction.

Circo has its own list of Caillot's irresistible desserts.

Circo's lunch menu includes a list of specials that change daily, soups and salads and pizzas. It is one of my favorite places for lunch.

Circo serves lunch: daily, 11:30 a.m.-2:30; dinner: daily, 5:30-10:30. Reservations are suggested. Call 693-8150.

The view of the lake from most tables is an added pleasure.

Short orders

Millennium cellar to open: On June 29, 1963, in Burgundy, France, Andre Boisseaux, president of Patriarche Pere et Fils and Canon Kir, a famous Burgundy personality, sealed off a small wine cellar. Tucked away in the cellar were more than 2,000 bottles of grand cru wines from the outstanding 1959 vintage. In November 2000 during the annual wine auction to benefit the Hospices de Beaune, the cellar will be unlocked. It will take three keys to open the cellar; one is kept at the Hospices de Beaune, another at the Beaune Town Hall and the third at Patriarche. Of course, there will be a tasting. Will these wines be for sale? To receive answers to any questions or additional information send your name and address via e-mail to: hartmann@kriter.com.

Beard dinner at Rio: Don't delay if you'd like to attend the eighth James Beard Foundation benefit dinner taking place at Napa at the Rio April 6. This "Great Chefs" event will feature France's three-star Michelin chef, Marc Haberlin, Napa's Jean-Louis Palladin, Seattle's Thierry Rautureau, San Francisco's Hubert Keller and chefs from three New York restaurants -- Rocco Dispirito, Michale Smith and Debbie Gold and Marcus Samuelsson, and Hudson Valley's Michael Ginor. The cost is $125 for JBF members; $150 for nonmembers. For reservations, call 252-7626.

Name change at Stations: Sunset and Texas Stations' Mexican restaurants have been renamed and are now Guadalajara Bar & Grille, just like their counterparts at Palace and Boulder Stations. The menus at all four Guadalajaras are offering such new items as spinach enchiladas, red chile pork tamales, nine varieties of burritos, daily specials and such classic specialties as pollo rotisador and pescado Francesco. Reservations are accepted.

Kady's price change: The Riviera has changed the price of the Kady's dinner and show combination price to $9.95. Shows available are La Cage, Crazy Girls and the Riviera Comedy Club.

"The Waiter's Manual": Larry Knight, former senior butler at Bellagio (he recently retired) has done it all, from busboy to dishwasher to waiter to maitre d' and butler to the stars. His most recent effort is a handy guide for those who want to become a professional server. As Knight says in the preface, "Being a professional waiter requires a great deal more than just knowing how to present food." To purchase copies of the informative manual, call 896-1856.

Ultimate Las Vegas kitchens: The Food Network's "Ultimate Kitchens" is coming to Las Vegas to profile two Las Vegas kitchens. Taping will take place this week. "Ultimate Kitchens" airs on Cox cable channel 42, Saturdays at 12:30 p.m. and 2:30 a.m.; Sundays at 12:30 p.m., 4 p.m. and 2:30 a.m.

Regale at Excalibur: Excalibur's Italian restaurant, Regale, now accepts reservations for dinner. Chef Edoardo Bucci came to Excalibur directly from Italy. Regale's menu includes a variety of pizza and pasta in addition to new favorites created by the chef. Regale is at the Medieval Village, Level II. Dinner hours are 5-10 p.m., Sunday through Thursday; 5-11 p.m., Friday and Saturday. Call 597-7443.

Chicken lover's burrito: "Chicken Burrito Madness" has returned to El Pollo Loco. This year's "Chicken Burrito Madness" celebration launches two new burritos -- the Mexican Chicken Caesar Burrito and the Ultimate Chicken Burrito. The new burritos combine El Pollo Loco's flame-broiled chicken with ingredients that take these burritos from ordinary to special. The Chicken Lover's Burritos were first introduced last year. All five are available at El Pollo Loco outlets.