Columnist Muriel Stevens: Tasting the good life with celebrities at Venetian feast

Friday, July 14, 2000 | 9:08 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun.com or 259-4080.

Ah, "La Dolce Vita." That's Italian for the good life, and it was also the name of the Venetian resort's first anniversary celebration. The weekend of activities for invited guests ended with a dinner dubbed the "Meal of the Century," hosted by the lovely Sophia Loren and emceed by Robin Leach.

It is not easy to prepare a dinner that wants to be the meal of the century for more than 600 guests, but with a number of the Venetian's celeb chefs contributing recipes and their cooking expertise it was a super event.

Most of the chefs sat at tables with the guests. Stephan Pyles (Star Canyon) and Eberhard Muller (Lutece) were at Rob and Cheryl Goldstein's table (he's the president of the Venetian). At the next table were David Robins, corporate chef for Wolfgang Puck's Las Vegas restaurants, including Postrio at the Venetian, and Luciano Pellegrini (Valentino) and Kevin Wu (Royal Star). These gracious chefs, in between stints in the kitchen, cheerfully autographed menus and posed for photos. With them was Leach, who had coordinated the dinner.

With Venetian owner Sheldon Adelson and his wife, Miriam, was the beauteous Loren.

Dinner began with Stephan Pyle's blue crab tostado topped with homemade red chili and blue corn chips. A sauce made from grilled corn and a drizzle of black bean essence completed the delicious appetizer-size tostado.

A smoked fish consomme with a float of smoked salmon and mushroom slices was the Lutece contribution.

Barely cooked asparagus accompanied the savory scallops and spicy greens cooked by Kevin Wu. How good was it? Both Adelson and Loren requested seconds.

David Robins made everyone happy with his Sonoma goat cheese salad -- a marvelous assortment of greens, dressed perfectly and accompanied with a baby beet Napoleon layered with goat cheese.

Chef Pellegrini offered a seared veal tenderloin with a black truffle sauce. The delicious tricolored -- red, white and green -- polenta that accompanied the veal was a fine counterpoint to the meat.

Pinot Brasserie's dessert, tart Tatin with cinnamon ice cream, caramel and vanilla bean sauces, was a pleasing finish.

During dinner the ebullient Leach introduced each chef who then gave a brief description of his dish. It was a long day for these seemingly tireless chefs. Some had been in the kitchen since early morning. Once the guests realized that the chefs were available, they crowded the tables making it almost impossible for the servers to perform. There's no question that these high-profile restaurateurs are stars.

Of course, the largest crowd was at Loren's table. At one point there were so many people attempting to reach her you couldn't see the table. She never lost her cool. When someone asked if the mobbing of her space bothered her she was quick to say that she was honored by their attention. No wonder her allure has lasted so long.

Happy anniversary, Venetian, you've really come into your own.

Short Orders

More Venetian: The response to the anniversary dinner was so positive that there is talk about a series of smaller events with great chefs from the U.S. and abroad. The dinners would be open to the public, with Leach, again, being the coordinator.

Lamar's Donuts opens: Kansas City's Lamar's Donuts has opened its first Las Vegas location at 9031 W. Sahara Ave. Grand opening ceremonies took place Thursday. A proclamation from Mayor Oscar Goodman declaring the day "Ray Lamar's Day" was presented to founders Ray and Shannon Lamar. Ray has been making his special recipe glazed doughnuts since 1933 and opened his first doughnut business in a converted gas station in downtown Kansas City. There are now many locations, and Lamar's Donuts International plans to open as many as 1,200 outlets by 2008, including more in Las Vegas.

Lamar's handmade doughnuts will be given away Saturday 10 a.m.-noon along with free pints of Creme of Weber milk. There will also be free doughnut holes and doughnut prize giveaways. Call 243-1717 for more information.

Philips completes redo: The veteran Las Vegas restaurant, Philips, at 4545 W. Sahara is celebrating 22 years and the completion of a full renovation of the dining room and bar and lounge. Hours have been expanded beyond lunch and dinner with the addition of a late-night menu served 10 p.m.-2 a.m. Lunch hours are Monday through Friday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner daily 4:30-10 p.m. Reservations are recommended. Call 873-5222.

Old and New World Pinot Noirs: The Wine Institute of Las Vegas and Lee's Discount Liquor Stores will present a master class tasting of some of the finest and rarest Pinot Noir wines from Burgundy, Calif., Oregon and Australia, Saturday at Lee's Summerlin store. The class conducted by Gil Schwarz begins promptly at 6 p.m. The price, $39, includes cheeses and bread. Ten wines will be tasted. Call Reid, 804-9700.

Krispy Kreme celebrates 63 years: Anyone lucky enough to have been born in July can celebrate their birthday along with Krispy Kreme Doughnuts. Youngsters under 16 must be accompanied by an adult; photo ID is needed for those over 16. Krispy Kreme celebrated its birthday Thursday, but July babies get the presents -- one dozen Krispy Kreme original glazed doughnuts. The free offer is good at all Krispy Kreme outlets until July 31.