Columnist Muriel Stevens: Benefit dinner at Puck’s Postrio was a smash

Friday, Jan. 28, 2000 | 9:37 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@vegas.com or 259-4080.

Food, glorious food. Las Vegas has more than its share of fine restaurants these days offering glorious meals. And as the list of celebrity chefs and restaurants grows, our community is enriched by the generosity of owners like Wolfgang Puck and his wife, Barbara Lazaroff. Since the day Spago opened in the Forum Shops at Caesars, they and their Las Vegas properties partners, Tom Kaplan and David Robins, have contributed to many local causes.

The recent Alzheimer's Benefit Dinner at the newest Puck restaurant, Postrio, at the Venetian, is a fine example. The benefit heralded the grand opening of the smashing new restaurant.

In the kitchen were Robins, who oversees the kitchens for all Puck restaurants, Postrio Executive Chef John LaGrone, Chef Steven Rosenthal, the maestro himself, Puck, and special guest chef Jean Andre Charial, who owns the renowned Oustau de Baumaniere in Les Baux de Provence, France. During an interview with Puck earlier in the day I learned that Charial and Puck met when both were young apprentices in the kitchens of Baumaniere. Monsieur Baumaniere was Charial's grandfather.

Through the years they've remained fast friends. Puck's marriage to Lazaroff took place at Oustau de Baumaniere.

Famous American chefs have always participated in the Alzheimer's dinner (this was the fourth). Charial was the first to come from abroad. For the two friends, being in the kitchen together was a reminiscence of the past. I'll share more of the interviews with both, soon.

Under the expert direction of Mirage Events' Cheryl Fish, the cafe section of Postrio had been turned into a colorful carnival setting that blended perfectly with the Venetian theme. It was here that the silent auction took place before dinner. Donna Baldwin, who headed the benefit's steering committee, was a whirlwind of gracious efficiency, overseeing every detail throughout the evening.

Guests munched on caviar and blinis, miniature crab cakes and other bite-size delicacies as they perused the vast array of silent auction items.

Dinner was a festive event, smoothly paced to allow mingling with the many Hollywood celebrities who attended. This was, indeed, a gala event.

Among the many courses were: smoked tuna sashimi with cauliflower puree and a caper-raisin sauce; a divine roasted pumpkin soup. Chef Charial's loup farci en croute avec sauce pistou (french sea bass in a crust, with a garlic-basil sauce) was first presented whole at each table so that we could appreciate the mastery required to make this dish. A whole French sea bass was encased in golden-brown pastry that had been scored to resemble fish scales, very much like the Russian coulibiac made of salmon, yet different (there was no rice).

The fish was then sliced and served. It was wonderful. Dessert by Postrio Pastry Chef Stacy Cosar White and Xuan Ngo-Viet was scrumptious: individual warm chocolate cakes with a center that oozed molten chocolate when opened. With it, espresso ice cream and petits fours.

In between courses a spirited live auction was ongoing. When the mikes failed, Robin Leach came to the rescue, auctioning the extraordinary items without a mike. His is a voice that could be heard, mikeless, in any arena. He saved the day.

After dinner, the party moved to the Davidoff cigar shop across the square for cognac, port, sherry and other after dinner drinks.

The wines that accompanied each course were selected by the esteemed winemaker, Robert Mondavi, who attended the event with his wife, Margrit. The selection included Dom Perignon champagne at the reception, and with dinner: Robert Mondavi Stag's Leap District Sauvignon Blanc 1997, Robert Mondavi Reserve Chardonnay 1997, Luce 1996, Opus One 1996, and with dessert, Ferrari-Carano El Dorado Gold 1997.

This was a an exceptional, lively event that raised over $800,000 to help combat the dreaded disease. Monies raised help support an Alzheimer's research program led by Dr. Leon Thal at UC San Diego, and locally, the Las Vegas Alzheimer's Association and the M. Marion Miller Alzheimer's Center. All members of the Alzheimer's Benefit Dinner Committee, Bobby Baldwin, Larry Ruvo, Kenny Epstein and Maddy Graves, have experienced the effects of having a close relative suffer from Alzheimer's. They devote time and generous amounts of money in memory of their loved ones.

They do not do it alone. They are supported in their efforts by a group of loyal Nevadans who make it possible to raise such magnificent amounts and who bid furiously on a remarkable collection of high-ticket prizes.

Michael Severino, director of special events for Southern Wine and Spirits and a steering committee member summed it all up when he said, "It is these generous contributors who are always there for us who make it all happen. Only a small number can attend since the dinners are limited in size" (there's always a waiting list). "Yet the numbers raised," he continued, "are significant. None of us are immune from Alzheimer's. It's the fourth leading cause of death in America."

Short Orders

Super party: The Resort at Summerlin will host a Super Bowl in their Grand Ballroom, Sunday. The $75 ticket includes all-you-can-eat "stadium style food," a special Super Bowl gift, chances to win autographed sports memorabilia and an opportunity to meet former NFL players. For reserved seat tickets, call 869-7160.

MGM kicks off wine program: MGM will debut a wine education program Sunday at Gatsby's. The weekly series includes seven wine workshops that will focus on the major varietals (single types of wine grapes) and wine regions of the world. International wine expert George Paul Truby will lead the workshops. The first one is a study of champagne. Included is a slide presentation followed by a tasting of the five champagne categories: Brut, Vintage, Rose, Blanc de Blanc and the special Tete de Cuvee. Price for the champagne course is $45. Call 240-6697.

White sturgeon at Nevada Nick's: Now through Feb. 25, Nevada Nick's -- An Original Steakhouse will feature farm-raised Atlantic salmon and smoked white sturgeon and caviar on their winter menu. Nevada Nick's is the newest concept from the Harman-Nickolas group, founders of the Nick's Fishmarket restaurants. Executive Chef Kevin Graham has created a variety of new salmon dishes including Sterling Salmon Portofino and salmon with a spring vegetable crust. All of the salmon and sturgeon are from the Stolt Sea Farm in British Columbia. The fish are harvested daily and shipped. For reservations, call 804-4906.