Columnist Muriel Stevens: Getting hot over range of ranges

Wednesday, Jan. 5, 2000 | 9:37 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' shopping column appears Wednesdays. Her dining column appears Fridays. Reach her at muriel@vegas.com or 259-4080.

As noted in last week's column, when my range was just about destroyed by a minor kitchen fire I was forced to look for a new one. The GE double oven, one-piece unit in my condo had served me well for many years, but these single units are no longer made, so I couldn't replace it.

Probably because of the drawbacks, mostly burner configuration, the design is no longer available. There were four coil burners, but you had to be a juggler to put four pans on at once and the overhang of the top oven precluded the use of a good-size stock pot.

When I downsized my life after the death of my husband, I went from a 1,600-square-foot kitchen that was also my television studio to one little larger than a galley. It took some doing, but somehow I managed to accommodate my cooking to a new small kitchen and normal-size range and ovens. Within its limitations the range cooked well. If you know how to cook you can cook with gas or electricity, although gas is far easier to control. Until I moved to Las Vegas I'd never had an electric range. It was a challenge learning to adjust to electric cooking, but it soon became easier. Ranges are like husbands or intimate companions. The longer you live with them the easier it gets.

I put off looking for a new stove until the day, recently, when it completely gave up the ghost. A friend was also in need of a new range (gas), so I volunteered to supply the know-how he needed to make the right decision.

We headed for Westar Contract Kitchen and Bath at 7370 S. Industrial. This handsome showroom is not well known to the public, but specializes in supplying major appliances to builders and contractors. Among the many lines found here are GE, Kitchenaid, Viking, Dacor, Asco, Sub Zero, Fisher-Pykel and more. The selection is choice. Although mostly for the building trade, Weststar will sell to consumers who are supervising their own remodeling or construction or to professionals like me. Prices are good, there's no charge for delivery and the sales assistants are fine. Like everyone else, Westar charges a reasonable fee for installation.

It's a pleasure to walk the showroom and see all of the latest models on display. For one brief moment I toyed with the idea of getting a professional range even though it would mean adapting my kitchen wall to be able to handle the higher heat a professional stove generates, but when I saw the GE Profile Series I was hooked. The top-of-the-line model I chose has a gorgeous stainless steel exterior and the radiant glass top has flexible burners: two burners can be connected by a bridge that makes it ideal for a griddle; there's a warming zone and a dual burner that can be small or large depending on the size of the pot; and exceptional insulation. The 30-inch oven is both regular and convection. The convection mode is my favorite. It bakes faster and more evenly than any oven I've had, and at a lower temperature.

The matching separate convection-microwave above the range houses the venting and fan. There were a few anxious moments when the installers told me the unit required its own outlet. I'd forgotten this was two pieces, not one. We decided to install it and have the electrician remove it when he came to put in the additional outlet. It was a minor inconvenience that I could have avoided if I'd realized two separate pieces each need their own outlet.

I like the clean lines of the touchpads on both the range and microwave. And they're so easy to use. It's all spelled out. Forget to push the start button after setting the oven and a reminder flashes on the screen.

In spite of the many features, my range and the small oven above it are a cinch to use. I'm thoroughly enjoying the appearance and efficiency of this terrific new range.

Other models in the line cost less. The gas range was less than my electric. A painted finish is less than the stainless steel. Colors are black, white or almond. Choose the microwave only, to go above the range and save a few hundred dollars. Although both microwave models look the same on the outside, the microwave-only model has a larger capacity.

Westar store hours are Monday-Friday, 8 a.m.-5 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.

More things to know: There are very few ranges on the market today that don't perform well. Before buying, look at many lines and choose one from a line that has the features that are most important to you. The price span can be wide. A serviceable, basic gas or electric range can be bought for less than $500. With each extra feature the price increases. Sealed gas burners and smooth-top electrics cost more, but are worthy options. Electronic controls and a professional stainless steel design add even more to the basic price.

Even though my new range and microwave fit into the exact space of the former one-piece unit, the distance between the two units is larger. Short people will not have an easy time of it. Two of my friends could not reach the top oven without standing on a stool.

One final note: Smooth-top ranges have improved considerably, but they still cook slower than regular coil burners.