Savvy wine buy: Monterra ‘98 Syrah

Max Jacobson

Wednesday, Dec. 6, 2000 | 10:10 a.m.

To paraphrase what it says on this wine's label, just because Syrah is a hardy, easy-to-cultivate vine doesn't mean that it is easy to grow wine-worthy grapes. Syrah was brought to California by Rhone Rangers such as Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Winery, but now the grape is being made well all over California, by people such as John Alban in Arroyo Grande and by various vintners in Napa and in Monterey, where the Delicato family operates this vineyard. Some think Syrah will be as popular as Merlot, and soon. This wine is redolent of plums, lavender and wild red fruits. It's also nicely balanced with soft tannins, a great food wine.

Available at Lee's Discount Liquors, $6.99.

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