Columnist Muriel Stevens: Yes, Yan can cook — and he can entertain, too

Friday, Dec. 1, 2000 | 11:18 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

It had been a long time since I'd heard from my friend Martin Yan, so I was delighted when he called to say that he would be doing cooking demonstrations at Harrah's the Sunday before Thanksgiving. Martin's successful "Yan Can Cook" PBS series has encouraged millions of viewers to cook Chinese food at home.

Martin would do two events at Harrah's. The first, a free demonstration and tasting for the public in Asia restaurant at noon; the second was an evening event for Harrah's high-rollers.

"Come early," he said, "so we can talk." He had just returned from a 94-day trip though Taiwan and Thailand, where he completed a new series for PBS. Just before the trip he had completed his latest cookbook, "Chinese Cooking for Dummies," his 24th book. It is the first of the "Dummies" cookbooks to have the chef's photo on the cover. In spite of his frenetic schedule he showed no sign of fatigue or jet lag.

Martin is a natural humorist and an acclaimed chef. While cooking he tells funny stories and wields his Chinese cleaver (the only knife he uses) in miraculous ways. I never tire of seeing him bone a whole chicken in seconds or slice one quarter of a cucumber into 54 paper-thin slices, as he did here. He then ringed the slices into a perfect circle on the shoulder of a plate. With a flick of his finger he set the slices on edge, then, like dominos, he had them "sit down." His digital skills are as keen as any card shark's.

As Martin said, "Chinese cooks do not have mandolines (French slicing machines) or a battery of knives, they use only the cleaver."

More than 150 admirers came to see him cook and to express their pleasure at having the opportunity to meet him in person. He made funny comments throughout his performance, but the cooking was serious and delicious.

There was no way he could make enough food in two home-size woks to give everyone a taste. But Asia Chef James Wong made batches more in Asia's kitchen so that no one was disappointed. Also assisting was Harrah's Assistant Executive Chef Brian Kage.

Chinese food has never been more popular than it is now. Martin believes that the cuisine is beloved because, "like Italian it is neutral, it appeals to all age groups. There's something for everyone. It's a family thing made for sharing.

"The endless variety of dishes and unbelievable amount of choices" is another reason, he said.

Hours later, when I left, Martin had sold all of his personally autographed books, and the excellent cleaver he designed (many were given away as prizes) and was still answering food questions. No one was turned away, although he must have been weary and still had the evening demo to do just a few hours later. No wonder everyone loves Martin.

For a view of the cleaver and other products check out yancancook.com.

Stations add eateries: Delicious things are going on at Station Casinos properties. The newest Station, Santa Fe Station, has opened the Capri, Santa Fe Cafe and Taos Steakhouse. Taos Steakhouse takes its theme and menu from New Mexico's art and dining center. Taos (formerly Kodiak Steakhouse) has rustic ski resort decor and Southwestern style. The menu is pure steakhouse -- New York steaks, filet mignon, prime rib and prime, aged porterhouse are among the specialties. Executive Chef Chuck Doherty says, "All meals will be enhanced with wonderful Southwestern flavors, and accompaniments."

The Capri Italian restaurant replicates the first Capri that opened in 1997 at Sunset Station in Henderson. Santa Fe Cafe is a 24-hour restaurant offering specials around the clock.

Texas Station has opened two new restaurants, Austin's Steakhouse and Texas Star Oyster Bar. Both are part of the Texas Station expansion expected to be completed in December. Austin's is both "elegant and casual."

Featured at the entrance are stack-stone columns and stained-glass art. The high, plush booths and chairs, curved alabaster panels and warm lighting are seductive. Austin's has a 45-seat private dining area and the A Bar, a 26-seat lounge. Chef Frank Grill recommends Austin's prime bone-in sirloin, the Wisconsin rack of lamb, glazed veal chop and pan-seared ribeye. Austin's also offers a selection of fish and seafood.

South Texas and Gulf of Mexico specialities are featured in the Texas Star Oyster Bar. New Orleans bouillabaisse, etoufee, oyster stew, grilled shrimp po' boy sandwiches, pan roasts and clams and oysters on the half-shell are among the many comforting foods. Chef Mario Valencia also recommends the gumbos and chowders.

Short Orders

At noon at Postrio the ebullient chef will prepare lunch as part of a fund-raiser for the Animal Foundation. The nonprofit foundation will open the Lied Animal Shelter at the end of this year. The foundation is dedicated to "forever ending the euthanasia of healthy, adoptable dogs and cats."

Tickets are $75. For reservations call 392-7120. Space is limited.