Columnist Muriel Stevens: Resort, mall have plentiful food, shopping options

Friday, Aug. 18, 2000 | 9:43 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' shopping column appears Wednesdays. Her dining column appears Fridays. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun.com or 259-4080.

Desert Passage is a magical shopping and dining world created and managed by the developer, TrizecHahn. "No expense has been spared in recreating the experience of traveling the great market cities of the ancient spice routes," said Desert Passage Marketing Director Paul Beirnes. "We're living in the experience economy, people want to participate more, to be less passive."

No doubt about it, Desert Passage is a rare flight of shopping and dining fantasy that takes the "traveler" on a dazzling adventure and without any of the perils of the real thing. Completely enclosed, Desert Passage provides its own environment and sometimes its own climate. Not to worry, the occasional rain -- complete with sound effects -- only comes down on the massive ship moored in Merchants' Harbor.

Dazzling in detail with intricate iron carvings and gleaming mosaic tiles, the illusion is complete. The "ancient" buildings are plastered in pounded mud and straw, in earthy tones of red and brown, a technique known as ocher pise. Moroccan antiquities and artifacts are woven into the pathways. "Natives" perform Arabian classical dances and the Shammadon, the candle and cobra dance (it was quite a sight watching them arrive fully costumed and wearing hard hats).

This is an intriguing tour. Continue on to the Fragrance Market, an enchanting street scene filled with exotic aromas and products. Is it possible that the secrets of eternal youth are to be found among the many vials and flacons? Anything is possible if only you believe. Travel next to the Treasure House. Feast your eyes on the glorious domed ceiling, then continue on to the Lost City. Carved into the naturally-sculpted 85-foot mountainside, it's an eyeful. A grand public square is nestled among the dome-shaped buildings and towers. Balcony areas carved into the cliffs are an ideal spot to relax and view the three-story human tower of Moroccan acrobats.

Treasures fill the passages. None are more gorgeous than the Sultan's Palace. There's nothing subtle about this sultan's palace, but then, palaces are known for their opulence, not subtlety. Fanciful decor is everywhere. The lilting sound of water resonates from Pot Weir fountains. Outside, the Sultan's walled garden courtyards are ablaze with color. Housed here is a posh collection of fashions, and accessories for the home, including the first in Las Vegas Z Gallerie. Just beyond the palace is the Medina, a marketplace that pays tribute to the artisans of ancient cities. The unique character of this marketplace is reflected in the interesting variety of merchandise. Continue on to Harbor Gate. The sound of lapping waves is enticing, yet nothing prepares the visitor for the sights and sounds that await.

Most remarkable is the hull of a 155-foot European transteamer ship moored in port. The sounds of longshoremen unloading new wares for trading can be heard as they make their way along the wooden gangway. From a distance is heard the rumble of thunder and then falls a gentle rain. Soon the skies clear and Merchants' Harbor again bustles with activity. Nearby are fashion boutiques featuring the latest designs from New York, L.A., Paris and Great Britain. Now dine in one of the many delicious restaurants that dot the landscape. From gourmet to casual, every taste can be satisfied. Shopping and dining are the heart of Desert Passage.

Among the many shops new to Las Vegas are: Sur La Table, an exceptional culinary and tabletop shop; Tuescher designer Swiss chocolates -- the truffles are amazing; an irresistible Build-A-Bear Workshop, where you design your own bear from the stuffing to the bear's clothing; Ann Taylor Loft; Manrico Cashmere (a Prada supplier); Rock Fish Catalog Co.; and McGrail's of Erin, featuring all things Irish.

Of course there are more firsts. Mont Blanc, known for its distinguished pens, has opened a boutique at Desert Passage (the Mont Blanc flagship boutique is in New York). Why Las Vegas?

Beth Shields, vice president of retail, said "Mont Blanc feels that Las Vegas is a very important market. Mont Blanc and Las Vegas are very similar in the way they have both expanded in the last few years. Mont Blanc feels that it is necessary to be in Las Vegas namely because of the tourism. People from all over the world come to Las Vegas. We want people to see us not so much as a luxury pen company, but as a luxury goods company. Since we opened our first boutiques we have debuted extensive and luxurious watch, jewelry, eyewear, stationary and leather collections."

Also debuting at Desert Passage are Tumi/Brighton, side-by-side stores featuring luggage, handbags and prime leather goods; Tommy Bahama, upscale men and women's sportswear; African Odyssey, handcrafted furnishings crafted from exotic woods; Joan Vass; French Connection; and dozens more fashion and specialty shops. All but 30 of the 130 shops are open.

There's no shortage of restaurants at Desert Passage, but only a few were ready for the opening:

"It's success," said Ruggeri, "was astonishing." He calls his Las Vegas restaurant, "The first Bice of the millennium," and an "all new experience." "I was lucky enough to be able to open Bices all over the world, so don't be shocked if you see flavor infusions in my restaurant here that reflect all of my world experiences." Bice at Desert Passage has two parts; a moderately priced cafe-grill and bar and the upscale dining room. Featured in the cafe is light fare -- salads, sandwiches, pizza, pasta and a few entrees. The larger dining room menu showcases the new flavors infused into the Italian specialties. Dine at Bice 11 a.m.-1 a.m. daily. Reservations are suggested for the dining room.

Blue Note Las Vegas is open for dinner 6 p.m.-2 a.m.; the cafe is opens at 11 a.m. Reservations are requested for the dining room.

In 1998 Keller opened Bouchon, an authentic French bistro in Yountville, Calif., with his brother Thomas. Already based in Las Vegas, Keller traveled back and forth to California's wine country. He ended his stint at Bouchon when the opportunity came to open his own restaurant at Desert Passage. Keller, a colorful personality who is happiest when he's in the kitchen, has created a real brasserie complete with a zinc bar and brasserie food. "Think La Coupole in Paris," he said, naming famous brasserie hangout for writers and artists. Expect many of the same kinds of foods -- fresh seafood, plats du jour, red shrimp from Spain and a host of products from Napa. Jose's menu is in play from 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. Prices are moderate.

Still to come: Commander's Palace, owned by the illustrious New Orleans restaurant family, the Brennans; The Anasazi, Harry Ohta's Santa Fe favorite with Native American, Northern New Mexico and American Cowboy cuisines; Ibiza, jointly owned by Keller and Lombardi, a Moroccan restaurant, nightclub and bar with dancing; Prana, a new concept supper club created by Crustacean restaurant in Los Angeles.

It's about a one-mile walk around the entire Desert Passage, but there are many delicious stops along the way.

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