Columnist Muriel Stevens: Bidding a fond farewell to Caesars’ Palace Court

Friday, April 28, 2000 | 9:10 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun.com or 259-4080.

Aremembrance of things past (with apologies to Marcel Proust): I never thought the day would come when I would write about the Palace Court at Caesars as a delicious memory, but in this new Las Vegas very few things remain of the past.

When Caesars Palace opened Aug. 5, 1966, it was the first themed Las Vegas hotel. And what a theme it was. Caesar and Cleopatra were permanent residents; gladiators courted customers; a harem of cocktail servers in sexy costumes (for the time) raked in record tokes. Caesars was the place to be.

Conceived by flamboyant entrepreneur Jay Sarno, it set a standard for entertainment, accommodations and restaurants that was without peer.

I was there for the opening of the hotel and later (1975) for the opening of the Palace Court restaurant. With its stained-glass dome, elegant appointments and exquisite food, Palace Court was breathtaking. And I was there Friday for the very last Palace Court dinner.

Still elegant and gorgeous, Palace Court did not look like a restaurant ready to turn in its gueridons (tableside cooking tables). Yet it was coming down to make way for more posh suites that would continue to entice high-stakes gamblers to Caesars.

It was hardly a solemn occasion. Most of the staff would remain at Caesars. And future building plans include more restaurants, the equal or more of Palace Court. While yet not set in stone, it's rumored that world-class celebrity chefs will be joining the hotel in the not-so-distant future.

In between courses, I shared with my dining companion memories of past Palace Court dinners and of Caesars' longtime food maven extrodinaire, Nat Hart, whose imprimatur was on everything from the china and flatware to the menu.

More memories were triggered by the notes on the "Farewell Night" souvenir menu. Among the many Palace Court highlights recalled was the dinner celebrating the life of Pablo Picasso, prepared for members of the Las Vegas chapter of the international gourmet society, Chaine des Rotisseurs.

The dinner took place during the construction of the new Palace Tower. The old entrance with the glass elevator was gone. The new entrance to Palace Court was not yet complete, yet everything went smoothly. The way to the restaurant was marked with Picasso prints; billows of white tulle and gold ribbon covered temporary handrails; the table decor included more Picasso works. The food selections represented the regions where Picasso lived and worked and his favorite dishes. It was a sensational event in spite of the construction.

Through the years the "unabashedly Gallic" Palace Court menus reflected the changes in French cuisine; it was lighter, more contemporary, but it always included the traditional favorites. Closing evening, many of the favorites were in place: seafood on ice; beluga caviar; Caesar salad made tableside; escargots Burgundy-style, with garlic and wine-enriched parsley butter; and the divine lobster bisque, flamed at the table. Rack of lamb, Dover sole, Maine lobster, duck with orange sauce and chateaubriand for two were among the entree choices.

Of course we ordered the signature souffles for dessert -- chocolate for me, vanilla for my friend. It was a scrumptious ending.

We left the restaurant to the lovely sounds of pianist David Osborne playing "As Time Goes By." For the Palace Court, time has gone by much too quickly. I eagerly await its reincarnation.

More Palace Court: Every dish that came out of Chef Mark Guizol's kitchen was superb. Service, as always, was impeccable; Maitre d' Brian Hunnings, gracious and welcoming.

Palace Court was known for many firsts: It was the first fine dining room to have a female maitre d', and it was the first to employ a woman as sommelier and wine director, Master Sommelier Barbara Werley.

On this special night the longtime servers and I shared memories of the days when lunch at Palace Court was always a special event. The sun shining through the stained-glass dome created a rainbow of colors. It was enchanting. Vestiges of the Palace Court still remain. When the dining room was redecorated the paintings of the 12 Caesars that adorned the walls were placed around the casino. They're still there.

A final tribute to the venerable dining room was included on the menu. "We bid adieu to this grand lady with a feast that honors her most popular menu items, her fine wines and most importantly, her style, with thanks to the guests who have made her a success and with renewed commitment to lead Las Vegas as we develop exciting dining experiences for the new millennium."

As a final personal tribute, my friend and I raised our glasses of Pinot Noir (chosen, of course, by Werley) to toast the glory that once was, and the glorious dining experiences yet to come at Caesars Palace.

Short Orders

Chefs For Kids: There's still time to buy tickets for Saturday's Chefs for Kids benefit at Mandalay Bay. Executive Chef David Kellaway has created a wonderful Calypso Cruise dinner and reception complete with tropical birds, steel drums and many dinners contributed by the participating chefs to be auctioned. Ticket price is still $125 per person. Call 258-8011 for tickets and reservations.

Wine dinners: Monday will be a busy night for wine aficionados.

Monday, Rosemary's restaurant on West Sahara Avenue will present a tasting of wines from "fabled Chateau Musar in Lebanon," and dinner. The evening begins with a champagne reception at 6:30 p.m.; dinner is at 7 p.m. The all-inclusive price is $120. Tickets are available through Sunday. Space is limited. For credit card reservations call 869-2251.

Monday, Gatsby's at the MGM Grand will host a winemaker dinner showcasing the wines of Justin Winery. Price is $95 per person, all-inclusive. Included are a reception at 6 p.m. with canapes, and a four-course dinner and dessert at 6:30 p.m. Call Gatsby's for reservations -- 891-1111.