‘60-Minute Gourmet’ out in paperback edition

Wednesday, April 26, 2000 | 10:04 a.m.

Pierre Franey, the late French chef, was a charming but no nonsense man. We met at a food conference and became instant friends when we learned we both believed that anyone could learn to cook.

He also believed that we shouldn't spend all of our time in the kitchen. Using basic methods, delicious meals could be prepared in a short time was his philosophy. When the "60-Minute Gourmet," the first collection of his New York Times recipes, was published (he wrote for the Times after retiring from the restaurant business) he became a star.

Available in a paperback edition "for the first time in a decade" (Times Books, $17) the best seller is still a boon to those who want to prepare tasty meals in an hour or less.

Franey's comments with each recipe are treasures. Down-to-earth, not at all dated and thoroughly enjoyable, "60-Minute Gourmet" is a friend to have in the kitchen.

Poulet Grille a la Moutard (Chicken Grilled With Mustard)

1 4-lb chicken, split for broiling

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

2 Tbs imported mustard such as Dijon or Dusseldorf

2 Tbs peanut oil

Sauteed vegetables, see recipe

1 Tbs red wine vinegar

2 Tbs finely chopped parsley

1. Preheat the broiler.

2. Sprinkle the chicken halves with salt and pepper. Arrange the halves in one layer on a baking dish and brush on all sides with mustard.

3. Arrange the chicken, skin side down, on the dish and sprinkle the top with oil.

4. Place under the broiler and cook 10 minutes. Turn the halves and broil 10 minutes longer.

5. Pour off all the fat from the baking dish. Turn the chicken pieces.

6. Reduce the oven heat to 400 degrees.

7. Scatter the sauteed vegetables around the chicken and place the chicken in the oven. Bake 10 minutes.

8. Place the chicken in the baking dish on the stove. Add the vinegar to the pan liquid, cooking a few seconds over high heat. Sprinkle with parsley. Yield: 4 servings.

Legumes Sautes

(Sauteed Vegetables)

3/4 lb very small potatoes, peeled

1 large carrot, about 1/4 lb, trimmed and scraped

4 small white onions, peeled

Salt to taste

2 Tbs butter

12 mushrooms, about 1/3 lb

Freshly ground pepper to taste

1. If the potatoes are not very small, cut them in half. Put them in a skillet with water to cover.

2. Cut the carrots into two-inch lengths. Cut each length into quarters. Cut the onions in half.

3. Add the carrots and onions to the potatoes. Add salt to taste and bring to the boil. Let boil 10 minutes and drain.

4. Add the butter to a skillet and when quite hot but not brown, add the vegetables. Cook over relatively high heat, shaking the skillet and stirring the vegetables. Add the mushrooms and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Continue cooking, shaking in the skillet and stirring, about 7 or 8 minutes. Yield: 4 servings.

Crevettes a la Creole

(Shrimp in Creole Sauce)

1 1/4 lb raw shrimp in the shell

4 Tbs butter

2 c. finely chopped onion

2 tsp minced garlic

1 c. chopped celery

2 c. green pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 1-inch cubes

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

3 c. fresh tomatoes cut into small cubes, or use an equal amount of canned imported tomatoes

4 Tbs finely chopped parsley

1 bay leaf

Tabasco sauce to taste

1. Peel the shrimp and remove the intestinal tract down the back. Set the shrimp aside.

2. Heat half the butter in a sauce pan and add the onion and garlic. Cook about 5 minutes without browning. Add the celery and green pepper. Add salt and pepper to taste.

3. Cook about 4 minutes, stirring often. Do not overcook. The vegetables should remain crisp.

4. Add the tomatoes, parsley, and bay leaf. Cover. At the boil cook about 10 minutes. Add Tabasco sauce to taste.

5. In a skillet heat the remaining butter and the shrimp. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Stir. Cook only about 1 minute or until the shrimp lose their red color.

6. Spoon the tomato mixture over the shrimp and stir. Bring to the boil. Serve piping hot with Creole rice. Yield: 4 servings.

Riz Creole (Boiled Rice)

4 c. water

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 c. long-grain rice

1 Tbs butter

1 tsp lemon juice

1. Bring the water to a boil in a sauce pan and add the salt and rice. When the water returns to the boil, let the rice boil vigorously in the water.

2. Let cook exactly 17 minutes. Drain in a colander and run hot water over it.

3. Add the butter, salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with lemon juice and toss until grains are coated. Yield: 4 servings.

Ed Giobbi's Hot Spaghetti With Cold Tomato Sauce

2 lb fresh, red, ripe tomatoes at room temperature (see note)

2 cloves garlic, finely minced

1/3 c. fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped and loosely packed

1/4 c. coarsely chopped parsley, loosely packed

1/3 c. olive oil, plus additional olive oil for the cooked spaghetti, optional

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 lb spaghetti or spaghettini

1. Combine the tomatoes, garlic, basil, parsley, 1/3 cup olive oil, salt and pepper to taste in the container of an electric blender or food processor.

2. Blend thoroughly.

3. Drop the spaghetti into boiling water and cook, stirring as necessary, to the desired degree of doneness. Drain. Return the spaghetti to the kettle and add, if desired, a touch of olive oil. Immediately add the tomato sauce. Toss quickly and serve immediately. This dish is generally not served with grated cheese. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Note: It is imperative that the tomatoes be at room temperature. Two tablespoons of Gorgonzola cheese may be added to the tomato mixture before blending.

Sirio Maccioni's Pasta de l'Estate (Pasta With Fresh, Uncooked Tomato Sauce)

3 large, red, ripe tomatoes, about 2 1/2 lb

4 large whole cloves garlic, peeled but left whole

1 small hot red or green chili, chopped, or use about 1/2 tsp or less red pepper flakes

1/2 c. coarsely chopped fresh basil

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1/2 c. olive oil

1 lb penne or other tubular pasta

1/4 pounds Fontina or Muenster cheese

1/2 c. grated Pecorino or Parmesan cheese

1. Wash and wipe the tomatoes. Remove the cores from the tomatoes. Chop the tomatoes. There should be about 6 cups. Put them in a large bowl.

2. Add the garlic, chopped chili, basil, salt, pepper and olive oil. Let stand at room temperature several hours. Or chill overnight. But let return to room temperature before serving.

3. Cook the penne according to package directions.

4. Meanwhile grate or shred the Fontina, using the coarse blade.

5. When the pasta is cookeddrain it. Spoon off about 1/4 cup of the surface oil from the tomatoes and add it. Add the Parmesan cheese and toss. Add half the tomato sauce and toss. Add half the remaining sauce and Fontina cheese and toss. Serve in soup bowls with remaining sauce spooned on top. Yield: 4 servings.