New cookbook farms out some great recipes

Wednesday, April 19, 2000 | 9:20 a.m.

Every now and then a small book comes along that is so enjoyable you wish it were twice its size. "My Brother's Farm: Reflections on Life, Farming and the Pleasures of Food" by Doug Jones (Perigee, $12.95) is such a book.

More novella than cookbook (there are 40 recipes from the farm's restaurant customers), Jones first book is a delightful read.

Doug Jones gave up being a corporate headhunter to become "an overeducated vegetable delivery boy" for his brother who owns an organic farm. Poorer, but happier he founded My Brother's Farm Local Produce Delivery Service, delivering choice organic vegetables to some of the finest restaurants in Manhattan.

Travel with Jones as he shares his new life experiences and his wit and whimsy, all delicious.

The recipes are appealing, too. I was more interested in the stories than the recipes. When I did get back to them I was impressed with their simplicity and goodness.

Jones mother's poems and his illustrations are wonderful enhancements. "My Brother's Farm," would be an ideal gift for any aficionado of farmer's markets and organic foods. So much humor and wisdom in such a small book.

I was happy to learn that a second book is soon to be released.

Nicolle's Pumpkin and Basil Soup

1 med to lg pumpkin (milk pumpkins are the sweetest, but you can also use the good old jack o'lantern kind, too!)

Olive oil

6 c. chicken stock

2 Tbs butter

1 medium onion, chopped finely

1 medium to large tomato, chopped finely

2 Tbs fresh basil, chopped

Dash of real maple syrup

Salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Carefully cut the pumpkin in half. Scoop out the seeds and strings. Rub the edges lightly with some olive oil, place on a cookie sheet, and bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until the pumpkin gets soft enough to remove the skin easily. Let it cool for a while, remove the skin, and chop coarsely.

In a medium to large soup pot, throw in the pumpkin with 5 cups of chicken stock. Set the remaining cup of stock aside to use later. Bring the pumpkin mixture to a boil and simmer over medium heat for about 20 minutes. Remove the mixture from the heat and puree in a blender or food processor. Return the pureed mixture to the soup pot.

In a medium saucepan, melt the butter. Saute the onion until soft and a little brown. Add the tomato and stew the mixture for 5-10 minutes. Remove from the heat and swirl the tomato and onion mixture into the pumpkin puree. If the soup is too thick, stir in the remaining chicken stock to thin, as needed. Stir in the chopped basil and a dribble of the maple syrup, and toss in some salt and pepper to taste.

Serve in warmed soup bowls with extra basil sprinkled on top for garnish. Complement with a warm crusty loaf of bread and a nice fruity glass of Beaujolais. Enjoy!

Local Fish Roasted with Herbs and Seasonal Vegetables

8 sprigs each of fresh rosemary, thyme, and parsley

6 Tbs extra virgin olive oil

48 oz fish fillets, left whole or cut into 8 6-oz pieces

Salt and pepper

2 lemons, halved

2 Tbs parsley, chopped

2 Tbs chives, chopped

seasonal vegetables (recipe follows)

Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Place the herb sprigs and 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large nonstick saute pan. Season the fish with salt and pepper, and place on top of the herbs. Roast for 5-8 minutes, depending on fish thickness and desired doneness. When the fish is done, remove it carefully from the pan. Pull off the herbs. Squeeze the lemons over the fish. Drizzle with the remaining oil and the chopped herbs. Serve on top of the vegetables. Serves 8. (Judson Grill)

Seasonal Vegetables

2 heads of garlic, split

1 1/2 lbs squash beans, or other seasonal vegetable

4 Tbs extra virgin olive oil

4 oz water or vegetable stock

Salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Roast the garlic heads for 30 minutes, until soft. Remove and let cool. When cool, squeeze out the garlic. Reserve.

For the vegetables:

Add the garlic and oil to a pan over high heat. When the garlic starts to sizzle, add the vegetables and lightly brown. Add the water or stock and season with salt and pepper.

Nine Spice Roast Game Hen

3 Rock Cornish game hens

1/4 c. fresh thyme, cleaned and chopped

1/4 c. fresh parsley, cleaned and chopped

1/4 c. fresh rosemary, cleaned and chopped

1/2 c. scallions, chopped

1/4 c. dry crushed red chili flakes

1/2 tsp ground black pepper

2 1/2 Tbs salt

1/4 c. soy sauce

1 c. olive oil

1 1/2 Tbs minced garlic

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Wash and pat dry the hens. With a heavy knife, split the hens along the backbone.

Combine the remaining ingredients and mix well. Coat the entire surface of the hens liberally with the seasoning mixture. Place the birds skin-side up in a roasting pan. Roast 30-40 minutes until golden brown. The hens are done when the juice runs clear when the thigh is pricked. Serves 6. (The Grange Hall)

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