Columnist Muriel Stevens: Tintoretto is a baker’s delight

Friday, April 14, 2000 | 9:27 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun.com or 259-4080.

Named for Tintoretto, a 16th-century Italian artist, the new Tintoretto bakery and cafe at the Canal Shoppes at the Venetian is already making its mark.

Open just one week this "international bakery with an Italian accent" is much more.

I arrived at 7:30 a.m. (Tintoretto opens at 8 a.m.) so that I could view the bakery cases before the early morning rush depleted them. Standing outside, looking in through the open doors was a reminder of the many similar cafes I've enjoyed in Italy. Not surprising since everything from the shutters on the windows to the tiles on the floors was crafted in Italy. The rich wood and glass showcases are other beautiful examples of fine Italian craftsmanship.

"We're not yet recovered from yesterday's run on the pastry selection," said Corporate Pastry Chef Francesco Santora. He is the third generation of Santora pastry masters. Tintoretto is part of the Five Star Restaurants group that also owns the adjacent Zeffirino Italian restaurant, Pizzeria de Enzo in the food court on the casino level and the commissary/bakery, where much of the prep work is done for both.

Santora was referring to the fact that very few pastries were on display. Instead, there was a remarkable selection of cookies (biscotti) of every description, as well as a gorgeous selection of crusty breads and rolls. The pastry selection usually includes: Napoleons, eclairs, custard-filled cream puffs, cannoli, Sacher torte, tiramisu, exotic fruit tarts, chocolate mousse and fruit mousses, apple cheesecake and much more.

Mini-size pastries are sold by the pound ($12.50). All of the cookies are sold by the pound (from $13.50). At least 40 varieties are available every day. It's not my usual habit to have cookies for breakfast, but I did taste a scrumptious biscottino marzapane al caffe. This complex mouthful was made of coffee-flavored marzipan atop a tiny pecan Florentine cookie. I also tasted the tiramisu. It's a close match to the classic, only lighter in taste (not calories).

Tintoretto considers itself an international bakery, so don't be too surprised to find hamentashen and rugelach and Black Forest cake and Sacher torte among the specialties.

All of the baked goods are available to eat in or take out. According to Santora, one of the most popular pastries is the individual apple-topped, New York-style cheesecake.

At the back of the bakery there is a small dining section, or dine outside on the attractive patio that joins Tintoretto and Seffirino's.

At breakfast there are omelettes ($3.95-$6.95), fried eggs served with potatoes, and sides of bacon, sausage or fried potatoes ($2). All egg dishes include the freshly-baked breads.

Lattes, espresso, cappuccino, orange juice and other beverages are offered. Breakfast hours are 8-11 a.m.

The all-day menu is in effect from noon-11:30 p.m. featuring salads ($6.95-$9.95), pasta ($7.95-$8.95), panini -- Italian sandwiches ($7.50-$9.95) and pizzas and focaccia ($7.95-$10.95).

A small selection of wines is offered by the glass ($4-$5) or bottle ($16-$20).

Santora will soon be baking a number of Easter specialties, including: a wheat pie created by the master that has a soft barley filling; "mostaccioli rococo," very ornate cookies dating back centuries; honey biscuits; panne de Pasquada; and other Easter classics. Call Tintoretto for additional information.

Tintoretto has a good selection of pasta, coffee beans, candies and gift items. The peach, pear and apricot nectars by Yoga sold in six-packs are sublime. There's a whole wall devoted to foodstuff and gifts. A terrific small gift is the black and white dice box filled with three cookies ($2.50). Pastora makes beautiful baskets of flavored nougat. One of these edible baskets filled with cookies or chocolate-coated truffles would please any sweet tooth.

An elegant bar at the entrance serves aperitifs, beer and wine, cordials, espresso and granita (flavored ices.)

I lost the battle trying to resist the many tempters and finished my tasting at home. Don't miss the raisin bread. I can't wait to make French toast from this tasty loaf.

Poi to the world: In years past I spent many months in Hawaii studying Asian cooking. At church luaus, which I attended regularly, I also got to eat what the Hawaiians eat at luaus: poi, ophi, poi, lomi lomi salmon, poi, pit-cooked pig, poi and coconut pudding. Poi was not my favorite. I would regularly trade my poi with the little kids. They loved it. Now I do, too -- not the dip-the-fingers-in kind, but the products made by The Poi Company in Honolulu.

First came a package of poi English muffins. Poi is not an appealing color unless you're Hawaiian. It's a sort of puce color; so were the English muffins. It took me many days before I decided to try them. Finally I toasted one. It was so good I couldn't believe it. Then came poi cheesecake. It was the same color. I usually taste-test new food products with my fellow writers, but I knew no one would taste it if I labeled the sample pieces "poi cheesecake." Instead, I identified it as "Hawaiian cheesecake" and everyone found it delicious.

I'm not the only one who now enjoys poi-enriched foods (poi is healthy stuff). The Poi Company has expanded the line to include poi bagels, poi lavosh, poi biscotti, poi ice cream, lomi salmon cream cheese, macadamia nut butter and poi dog biscuits for Fido. It would be happy to make your life poiful. Reach it at: thepoicompany.com for a mail-order list, or by fax (808) 845-6616 or phone (808) 845-6636.