Columnist Muriel Stevens: Shanghai Lilly offers visual, culinary delights

Friday, April 7, 2000 | 9 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun.com or 259-4080.

Walk just a few steps beyond Charlie Palmer's Aureole restaurant at Mandalay Bay and you will reach one of the most dramatic and beautiful Chinese restaurants in Las Vegas, Shanghai Lilly.

According to legend, the restaurant's namesake, Shanghai Lilly, was, by day, "the anonymous benefactor of Shanghai's leading art museum and other charitable endeavors." This flower of Shanghai was a very private person even though she was a strong presence in the city's leading philanthropic circles.

This was during the 1920s and 30s when Shanghai was the cultural center of China and, indeed, of all Asia. In spite of her shunning all publicity, as a major contributor to the arts Lilly was revered by all Shanghai citizens who knew about her. Yet her picture never appeared in newspapers and she participated only in closed-door, daytime meetings.

Ah, but at night the Asian beauty operated on a different level as owner of Shanghai's finest dining establishments. This dazzling hostess with a mysterious background was both famous and infamous in the "entertainment" districts in Shanghai.

There's nothing mysterious or notorious about Shanghai Lilly at Mandalay Bay. It is a gorgeous restaurant designed by Tony Chi & Associates. So beautiful is the design and decor that in 1999 Chi's company was selected as the grand prize winner in the Gold Key Awards for Excellence in Hospitality Design. Shanghai Lilly received the top award in the category of Restaurants Seating Over 110.

The dining room is serene, beautifully lit and decorated. There are private, family style dining rooms that are wonderful. My friends had chosen one for our dinner.

Most of the menu is Hong Kong-style Cantonese with some Szechwan specialties.

The Peking duck that we enjoyed as our first course could have won a prize for its beauty and flavor. The lacquer-like skin was so crisp, yet tender. The duck had been cooked until most of the fat under the skin had been rendered out. Only a thin layer remained; just enough to give the skin excellent flavor. Served on steamed buns with traditional scallion brushes and hoisin sauce, it was a delight.

Next came more of the Peking duck. This time the meat had been diced and sauteed with water chestnuts, straw mushrooms and Chinese sausage. With it, crisp lettuce cups to be filled with the succulent mixture. This two-course Royal Peking Duck service is $58. The bird could easily serve four.

Guiding us through the menu was General Manager Francis K. C. So, a most gracious, informative gentleman. With each course we got a history of the dish and how it was prepared.

Whole Maine lobster ($65) sauteed with ginger and scallions, was cut into chunks and served in the shell. The shell does add flavor, but I prefer my lobster removed from the shell for eating. Nevertheless, this was a tasty dish.

Shatin squab ($22), a whole marinated squab, was braised in a rich broth before being baked. On the side, a dish of salt, pepper and five-spice powder for dipping.

Chilean sea bass on a bed of braised lettuce was cooked and served from a clay pot (the restaurant offers many clay pot dishes). This delicate dish was a pleasant interlude between the meatier courses.

Our feast continued with exceptional Beijing pork chops ($18). The center cut, boneless chops had been marinated in fermented bean paste and chee hau sauce, then pan-seared. The flavor and texture of the meat was outstanding.

Our last course, one large live shrimp, cooked Hong Kong-style over high heat then splashed with hot oil, was a fine finale.

Only it wasn't the finale. Desserts were a lovely surprise. We shared a variety: a trio of fruit sorbets surrounded with fresh berries; a fallen chocolate cake garnished with sweet dumplings; a refreshing Napoleon of fresh pineapple; a stacked lemon parfait; and twin chocolate towers -- one filled with ginger-chocolate mousse, the other with raspberries and whipped cream.

It was madness, but we enjoyed every bite.

Also offered are a variety of Chinese desserts.

Shanghai Lilly's extensive a la carte menu features many seafood specialties, $14 to market price for selections from the live tank. Appetizers are $7-$14, soups, $5-$14. Clay pot dishes and beef, pork and poultry selections are priced from $16; Vegetables, noodles and rice dishes from $9.

Before dinner walk past the elegant two-story waterfall, across the mosaic marble walkway and pause for a drink at the handsome bar and look at some of the wonderful design elements that make up the restaurant: two 15-foot statues guard the entrance to the main dining room and screens with hand-wrought bronze calligraphic symbols are just a few.

Reservations are suggested. Call 632-7777.

It's all about jewelry: This year's "A Flair for Care" fashion show and luncheon benefit for the Nathan Adelson Hospice on April 25 promises to be a spectacular event.

The two ballrooms of the posh Four Seasons resort are the setting for the Neiman Marcus fashion show showcasing Richard Tyler, and the luncheon. Guests will first enjoy the fashion show in one ballroom, then lunch in the second. The menu created by Four Seasons Executive Chef Wolfgang von Weiser will feature a Caprese salad of mozzarella, tomato and fresh basil, chilled poached salmon with a dill sauce, and a delectable chocolate hazelnut cake with raspberry and mango coulis for dessert.

What makes this event even more special are the donation prizes ($20 per ticket), an assemblage of jewelry pieces from such notable designers and shops as Bulgari, Neiman Marcus, David Yurman, Steven Lagos, Fred Leighton, Mikimoto, Oscar de la Renta, Tiffany & Co., Gucci, John Hardy and Harriet Anthony. And there's more: Sharp Jewels of New York, Fred Joailler, William Goldberg Jewelers, Barrera, the Jewelers of Las Vegas, Tower of Jewels, Giorgio Armani, Polo, Henry Dunay, John Hardy, Venetzia and still more.

For tickets call Judith Hantin at the hospice, 796-3112.

Sonia's menu expanded: George Aretos, owner of Sonia's Cafe at Valley View and W. Charleston, is continually expanding the food choices. A new millennium menu offers 13 new pita wraps, new salads and a millennium rice side dish. All are reasonably priced -- $5.95-$7.25 -- and delicious. I tasted just about every one while each was in the development stage. This small cafe is filled with delicious surprises. Of course, the regular menu is still in place.