The Main Course — Muriel Stevens: Star deli and bakery is a hot spot to nosh

Friday, Sept. 17, 1999 | 9:18 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@vegas.com or 259-4080.

The closing of Freddie G's deli restaurant was sad news for noshers and fressers who loved the clubby atmosphere and the good food. It will be hard to replace.

Still, there's good news for New York-style deli buffs who want a reliable corned beef sandwich on good rye bread. Just opened at the Rio is the Star Deli and Bakery. Like so many delis in New York today, Star serves cafeteria-style.

Go up to the counter, place your order and pay for it. Chances are it will be ready by the time you get to the register. If not, a server will deliver it to the table.

Star Deli is a haimish (homey) kind of place. It's attractive, but not very large; the tables are round -- parties larger than four can request to have a couple put together. Service is on sturdy paper plates that won't buckle when you pick up your food.

Star Deli is still a work in progress, so the menu is not yet complete, but all the basics are there: deli soups -- matzo ball or borscht ($3.95) -- smoked fish platters served with a bagel, cream cheese, lettuce, tomato and onion -- pickled herring, lox, whitefish, sturgeon and gravlax ($5.95-$7.95) -- a selection of overstuffed sandwiches ($4.95) -- kosher pastrami or corned beef, smoked tongue, Reuben, roasted turkey breast or roast beef, tuna, chicken or egg salad, and chopped liver.

All of the breads are baked on premise. The rye and pumpernickel slices are sized to make a generous sandwich. Even the bagels are made at the Rio. Not to be missed -- master baker Brenda Hitchins' latest creation, plagasie, a baguette loaf with a dense crisp crust and a tender interior. I ate half the loaf on the way home.

The Reuben sandwich is a delicious original version. The traditional Reuben filling is encased in rye bread dough and baked. It's a super pocket sandwich. Sandwiches are served with pickle slices and pickled green tomato.

Hitchins' potato knishes ($2.25) are sinful. A savory potato filling is wrapped in a flaky pastry my grandmother would have envied. My corned beef sandwich was piled high with warm, lean, thinly sliced meat. The rye bread was properly sour. At least two dozen varieties of breads, danish, scones, croissants, coffee cakes, muffins and scones are available at the bakery counter. It's all very appealing.

Homemade sausage sandwiches ($2.95-$3.95), a number of side dishes, bagels, assorted cream cheeses and a quiche of the day are just about everything that's available now. VP Food and Beverage Craig Gilbert told me that a takeout menu is in the works.

Two reserved spaces in the parking area are dedicated to takeout customers. Parking is easy. No need to go through the hotel. Drive around back to the new convention center/pavilion. There's ample parking and the entrance takes you into the restaurant corridor where Star Deli and Bakery is located.

Gilbert summed up Star Deli by saying "people who understand this kind of food will appreciate the integrity of the products we're serving."

Star Deli is open daily, 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. For additional information or takeout orders, call 252-2762 or 252-7777.

Chinois lunch menus change monthly, but always include dumplings, potstickers and egg roll ($6.50-$8.50), traditional soups and salads ($5.50-$9.50) and such classic appetizers as moo shu duck with scallion pancakes and barbecued ribs ($9.50-$11.50). I can't wait to try the Peking Duck sandwich on sesame seed bread ($11.75).

The lunch menu also includes a number of wok dishes ($11-$16), noodles ($12.50-$17), the signature whole sizzling catfish -- so sweet, so tender, so expertly deep-fried, there's barely a sign of any oil.

Lunch is served daily at Chinois from 11:30 a.m.-5 p.m. It's a fine place for an early dinner.

Sushi is offered from 2 p.m. to closing; dinner from 5-10:30 p.m. (later on weekends). The Chinois dinner menu is much larger and changes daily. Dishes at lunch and dinner are sized to share, family style.

For reservations, call 737-9700.

Short orders

Admission is $2; children under 12 are admitted free. The best bet is the $10 coupon book with a value of $15. It includes admission, a full dinner, a drink coupon and a raffle ticket. Food booths sell a la carte choices; there's continuous live Greek music and dancing exhibitions; rides and games for children and fun for every member of the family. There's also a Greek market offering souvenirs and additional food items -- taking home a box of the scrumptious Greek pastries is part of the tradition; and tours of the beautiful church.

Coupon books must be purchased in advance. For additional information, call the church.

Thursday is Make-A-Wish Foundation Opening Night. The all-you-can-eat barbecue will have celebrity chefs working with the teams. Proceeds from the event go to the foundation. Tickets to eat are $10; general admission is $2; children under 12 are admitted free. Friday night is jazz night; Saturday, music by local bands; Sunday, Las Vegas Blues Birthday, all with barbecue.

Food purchases and rides are not included in the admission price. The event takes place at Sunset Station's corner lot at Stephanie and Sunset. For ticket information, call 798-0000.