Columnist Muriel Stevens: Cafe Heidelberg on E. Sahara makes a culinary comeback

Friday, Sept. 10, 1999 | 9:21 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@vegas.com or 259-4080.

Many years ago when Cafe Heidelberg opened on East Sahara (behind Marie Callenders) I ate and shopped there regularly.

It was a colorful, small cafe with a decent menu and a good selection of deli items: German breads, baking supplies and many German groceries. But the years were not kind to Old Heidelberg. With each change of ownership the cafe declined a little more.

Cafe Heidelberg's current owner, Tanya Ferris Brandl, is a UNLV Hotel College graduate and a savvy businesswoman. Under her ownership the cafe and dining room are now clean and attractive. The grocery, gifts and other areas have been spruced up, and I am happy to report the food I ordered was delicious.

Most of the food is homemade. Portions are generous. Sandwiches served at lunch are meals. The house speciality pork schnitzel on a good Kaiser roll includes lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise. The crisp, thin schnitzel was delicious. All hot and cold sandwiches ($5.25-$6.95) come with a choice of German or regular potato salad. Have the warm, vinegary German potato salad with the schnitzel. It's a tasty pairing.

Sausage platters ($6.95) are served with rye bread, potato salad and a choice of red cabbage or sauerkraut. Bratwurst, smoked Thuringer bratwurst, Nurnberger bratwurst, Hungarian sausage, weisswurst, knockwurst and Polish kolbasa are included in the selection.

One day at lunch I ordered a number of side dishes ($1.95-$3.95) -- red cabbage, spaetzle and German fried potatoes -- and enjoyed each one. The red cabbage was seasoned perfectly, the spaetzle were tender and the paprika-sprinkled potatoes with shreds of fried onions needed only a little salt to make them perfect. I much prefer to add salt at the table than to have over-salted food.

Lunch is served Monday through Saturday 11 a.m.-4 p.m.

A variety of sauteed or breaded schnitzels ($11.95-$16.95) -- hunter, Gipsy, Holstein, Swiss, Cordon Bleu, Vienna, Weinerschnitzel and Huhnerschnitzel (chicken) -- are featured on the dinner menu. Also featured are European specialties ($12.95-$15.95) -- beef rolls, sauerbraten, pork roast, stuffed cabbage rolls, goulash, chicken breast and a sausage sampler.

Dinner selections include a choice of soup or salad, a choice of spaetzle, fried potatoes or bread dumplings and a choice of sauerkraut.

Warm homemade apple strudel, a rich Black Forest torte and marble cake and ice cream are offered for dessert.

Tanya calls her restaurant's style of cooking "Oma's" (grandmother's). I call it just plain good.

Cafe Heidelberg's dinner hours are Monday through Saturday 4-9 p.m.; Sunday 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Reservations are accepted. Call 731-5310.

While you're there, browse the grocery and gift sections. There are cookies and breads, all sorts of canned goods, pickles, German mixes, candies and more. Beginning in October the wonderful German breads from Canada will be available. The bakery does not ship to Las Vegas in the summer. October is also when the German Christmas specialties arrive.

Short orders

Boys & Girls Club benefit: CasaBlanca Resort in Mesquite, with assistance from Southern Wine & Spirits, will host an extravagant wine tasting Saturday from noon to 6 p.m. with all proceeds going to the Boys & Girls Club of Las Vegas. Tickets are $10 in advance; $15 at the door. Call 367-2582 to get them from the B&G Club. CasaBlanca has special room packages that include two tickets to the wine tasting. Call 800-459-7529.

Kids eat free at Harley-Davidson: All kids under 10 years eat free (with the purchase of an adult meal) during September and October at the Harley-Davidson Cafe on the Strip at Harmon. The promotion is in honor of the cafe's second anniversary. Sunday is Grandparent's Day. From 5-7 p.m. the first 98 diners will receive an anniversary cake and a chance to win Harley-Davidson Cafe merchandise.

Macy's and Station Casinos: On Sept. 18 Macy's will join with Station Casinos in presenting a free cooking class from noon-2 p.m. Boulder Station Executive Chef Dan Pfieffer will do Oktoberfest dishes; Palace Station's The Broiler Chef Richard Gibson will prepare the restaurant's succulent crab cakes. Anyone who attends can register to win dinner for two from a Station restaurant. For more information, call 731-5111, ext. 4254.

Resort at Summerlin restaurants open:

Gustav Mauler's Italian Spiedini restaurant opened this week to rave reviews from diners. The chef is from Milan; Gustav and wife Denise are always there. Sounds like a winning policy.

Nevada Nick's -- An Original Steakhouse owned by Nick Nicholas opens Saturday. The rustic, yet elegant design by Jordan Mozer & Associates of Chicago is smashing. Check out the features on the bar stools. Kevin Graham is the executive chef; Pat Martinet (formerly of Drai's) is director of catering.

Coyote Cafe Tequila dinner: Celebrity chef Mark Miller will join with Porfidio Tequila owner Martin Grassi and author Lance Cutler ("The Tequila Lover's Guide to Mexico") for Coyote Cafe's Second Annual Tequila Dinner, Sept. 30. Dinner will take place at the MGM Grand in the restaurant's handsome Grill Room. The price is $100 (including tax and gratuity) and includes an autographed copy of Cutler's book. Coyote Cafe Executive Chef Thomas Birdwell and General Manager Brian Cochran say the event is structured much like a traditional wine tasting with the foods paired with different wines. Each of five-courses will be paired with a different Tequila, Mezcal or blend. Reservations are strongly suggested for this singular dinner. Call 891-7349.

Monday Night Football Smokers at Hamilton's: Hamilton's at New York-New York will kick off its Monday Night Football Smokers Monday. The parties begin at 5:15 p.m. and continue throughout the season. Included in the $35 per person price are two Hamilton cigars; a prime rib buffet with Caesar salad, fresh vegetables and cheesecake; and unlimited beer and cocktails. Seating is limited. For reservations, call 740-6400.

New Buffet prices at Stations: Boulder Station Feast Buffet prices are now $4.49 at breakfast; $8.99, Sunday Brunch; lunch Monday through Saturday, $6.49; Monday, Wednesday and Sunday dinner, $8.99; Tuesday rib night, Thursday steak night and Saturday prime rib night are $9.99; Friday seafood night is $13.99.

Effective Sept. 20 prices for the Feast Buffet at Palace Station are the same as Boulder Station.

At Sunset Station, prices at the Feast Around the World Buffet are: breakfast, $4.49; Saturday and Sunday brunch, $8.99; lunch (Monday-Friday), $6.99; dinner, $9.99. Beginning Oct. 1, Friday is steak and wine night, $10.99; Saturday is baby back ribs and microbrews night, $10.99.

Prices at Texas Station are $4.99 for breakfast; Saturday and Sunday brunch, $8.99; lunch, $6.99; dinner Sunday through Thursday, $9.99; Friday steak night, $10.99; Saturday prime rib night, $10.99.