Resort has plenty of dining options

Thursday, Sept. 2, 1999 | 9:59 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column, The Main Course, regularly appears Fridays in the Accent Section. Reach her at 259-4080 or muriel@vegas.com

"I love Paris in the springtime, I love Paris in the fall; I love Paris in Las Vegas, it's my favorite Paris of them all." OK, so that's not exactly the way the old classic refrain goes, but Paris Las Vegas is certainly something to sing about.

Every attempt has been made to, as closely as possible, duplicate the charm and style of the original. The results are smashing. I'm not the only one who believes that Paris Las Vegas captures the essence of Paris, France. Members of Las Vegas' French community think so, too. Nadine and Pierre Bezard came to Las Vegas 36 years ago. Pierre was the stage manager for the Casino de Paris production at the Dunes.

Asked how he felt about Paris Las Vegas, Pierre said, "I think it's great. The monuments of Paris have been so faithfully reproduced, I can't believe it! It's a great thing for Las Vegas and France. And it's wonderful for people who can't afford to go to France. For those who can, it's an incentive to go." His daughter, Corrine, who was visiting from France, called it fabulous.

The Bezards were at Paris Las Vegas for the celebration of Bastille Day, July 14. Said Nadine, "It was just like being in Paris -- it's such a nice feeling. We love it."

Lenotre Las Vegas is both cafe and retail shop featuring authentic French croissants, breads and pastries, coffees, teas, chocolates, exquisite truffles, candies and fruit preserves -- all made from the finest ingredients. The quality of the chocolate used in the candy making is superb. A selection of French baking pans, cookbooks and packaged gourmet foods fill the retail section. Gift baskets are another Lenotre specialty.

All of the pastries and breads are available to take home. With Executive Pastry Chef Jean Philippe Dufoin as my guide, I sampled tiny Madelaines, chocolate-dipped cookies (molleaux), a singular raspberry tart and a number of the house specialties. The selection is exceptional. Prices are fair for this kind of quality. Many of the pastries are large enough to share.

There are currently seven Lenotre boutiques in and around Paris. There are more than 32 Lenotre boutiques in other parts of the world. Paris Las Vegas has the only boutique in the United States. Have a light breakfast at Lenotre. Close your eyes -- take a sip of the rich, dark coffee; take a bite of the flaky, buttery croissant (the butter comes from France) -- voila, you're in Paris. Lenotre is in the Rue de la Paix.

Take the glass elevator to the tower restaurant, where a personal escort awaits. Diners are taken past the kitchen where complimentary tidbits and other surprises are offered, then you are escorted to the bar for a pre-dinner drink, or to the table. Your call. The glass-enclosed dining room gives a splendid view of the Strip. A salon privee (private dining room) includes the same glorious view. This is one of two restaurants owned by one the nation's leading restaurant groups, Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, Inc. Chef Jean Joho, who leads the Eiffel Tower Restaurant team, was formerly the chef at the award- winning Everest in Chicago. Scott Collins is the manager.

Eiffel Tower Restaurant offers dinner Sunday through Thursday, 5:30 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30 to 11 p.m. The handsome bar is open Sunday through Thursday, 5 p.m. to midnight; Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m. to 1 a.m.

Mon Ami Gabi, a French steakhouse and stylish Parisian-style cafe, is the other LEYE eatery. It is a clone of the popular Chicago Mon Ami and is the only Paris Las Vegas restaurant with street-level outdoor dining a la Paris, France. Chef Gabino Sotelino, who opened the Chicago Mon Ami, is in the kitchen. Perry Fuselier is Mon Ami's manager.

Mon Ami Gabi is open every day for lunch and dinner -- Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to midnight. A limited menu is offered from 2:30 to 5 p.m.

Overseeing the Paris Las Vegas restaurants is Eric Scuiller, a new member of the prestigious Master Chefs of France and the new executive chef at Paris Las Vegas. Only 200 chefs worldwide can claim the honor of being a member of the Master Chefs of France. Scuiller, who comes to Paris Las Vegas from Bally's, directs a staff of 500 culinary experts, many of whom are French trained. Enthusiastic and personable, Scuiller promises to "build a fabulous bridge between French traditional cuisine and America's culinary expectations. Everything we do from food preparation to the decor and our services will be carried out in the French tradition." French tradition is what the restaurants are all about.

La Rotisserie is open for lunch every day 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; dinner hours Sunday through Thursday are 5:30 to 11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30 to 11:30 p.m.

I watched as eight servers sang French songs and danced. It was terrific. The troupe -- all members have professional credits -- was put together by another show biz professional, Gary Giacomo. Gary researched the stirring music and adapted it for the room. Performances take place every 15 to 20 minutes. I'll bet a CD will soon follow. Lunch is a la carte. Dinner hours are Sunday through Thursday, 5:30 to 11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30 to 11:30 p.m. Thierry Connault is the chef; Albert Charbonneau, the manager.

Prices in the upscale restaurants range from moderately expensive to expensive. The buffet, cafes and bakery are good values. French to its fingertips, Paris Las Vegas is tres, tres bon.