Lenotre opens first U.S. cafe

Thursday, Sept. 2, 1999 | 11:55 a.m.

The day before the opening of the new Paris resort I met with the founder of the Lenotre gourmet empire, Gaston Lenotre. Lenotre's reputation began in the little town of Point-Audemer, near Deauville, where he opened a small pastry shop. The success of that first venture encouraged him to move with his wife to Paris, where he bought a small shop in the desirable 16th district.

Before long he was being hailed all over the world as France's most talented and creative pastry chef. Adventurous and ambitious, the innovative chef's ventures now include the boutiques, restaurants, catering and banquet services and a mail order catalog.

Lenotre was in Las Vegas for the grand opening of the first Lenotre gourmet boutique and cafe in America at Paris Las Vegas. Much in demand, his stay was a short one. He would attend the grand opening of the hotel and his shop and return to Paris after just two days.

With him was an entourage that included Patrick Scicard, chief executive officer and chairman of the board, a dynamic gentleman who was kind enough to act as interpreter during our conversation.

With me were the first two Lenotre English language cookbooks published in the early '70s. They were treasured friends that had helped me refine my own baking and ice cream-making skills. Like any admirer, I had brought them to be autographed.

Lenotre is a gracious, friendly man -- debonair, with a twinkle in his eye that can turn steel-blue as he evaluates the output of his bakers. I watched as he tasted and critiqued the breakfast rolls, croissants and small cakes that were served with our coffee. It is his high standards that guide the bakers. He never compromises the quality. Never.

First he smelled each bread. There is a standard for aroma. Then he carefully looked it over for uniformity of shape and size. After breaking open the croissants and rolls he eyed the texture, and finally he tasted, not once but as many times as he deemed necessary. To me the croissant was excellent; to him it needed more salt. I was so happy to have such wonderful French baked goods in Las Vegas, I could find no fault.

"Did you find any problems with using American ingredients," I asked. I already knew that samples of our flour and water had been sent to him in France to be analyzed.

"The flour is fantastic," he said, better than in France. "The high gluten makes good breads, and the water is good, too." That's high praise from such a perfectionist. "But," he continued, "we are bringing in the butter from Echire and Le Triette in France. For my products I require no more than 16 percent water in the butter. American butter has much more."

"With so many Lenotre boutiques in other parts of the world, why did it take so long for you to open in America?" I asked. "Surely you know you have many admirers here."

"It is so much more difficult to open a food-related business in America than it is in other countries, such as Japan and Morocco" said Patrick, explaining that our food laws are much more stringent. Once they mastered the process the opening of the boutique at the Paris resort was assured.

"Now that you have finally come to America will there be more of Lenotre in America?" I asked. His reply was noncommittal, but promising. "I'm overjoyed and proud that Americans will finally get to know and love Lenotre products."

I'm always concerned about absentee management when a celebrity-owned food business opens. "How often will you return to the Paris resort," I asked.

"A key executive will return at least every three months to check out our quality controls." Lenotre International Director Laurent Terrasson has been at the resort for the past few months and will remain until Sept. 18.

Lenotre shared with me some of the highlights of his life: his arrival in Paris in 1957; graduating more than 2,500 apprentices from his professional cooking school at Plasir -- they begin their training at age 15 and, with his help, are assured a successful future; to see his company and associates enjoying such prosperity; and to be associated with the Paris resort.

Bienvenu (welcome), Gaston. We look forward to sharing many more conversations and tastings of your superb products. Until the next time, bonne chance! (good luck) and au revoir!