The Main Course — Muriel Stevens: Dragon Court event at MGM an Absolut smash

Friday, Oct. 8, 1999 | 9:43 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@vegas.com or 259-4080.

Absolut vodka joined forces with Dragon Court Chinese restaurant at the MGM Grand this week and created a most interesting dining event.

Chinese cuisine is not easily paired with wine or spirits, yet Southern Wine and Spirits master of mixology, Francesco La Franconi, met the challenge with excellent results.

It was an event geared to informing the beverage directors of the versatility of cocktails. La Francon made the point by creating some surprising libations. This was the first dinner of its kind, so I was pleased to have been invited.

I do like vodka, particularly the Absolut Kurant, but it is not something I usually sip with food. Intrigued by the idea, I was a willing participant.

Guests were welcomed by MGM Grand Food and Beverage Director Asaad Sarag, who was a most gracious host.

At the reception Dragon Court, Chef Yau Kai Wa offered a number of hot and cold tidbits. With them, an Absolut pick-me-up made with Absolut vodka, Chambord raspberry liqueur, cranberry juice, apple juice and chilled champagne. Any sparkling dry white wine could be substituted, La Franconi says.

Dinner began with a taste of Imperial Peking Duck nestled in a fried bun and another Dragon Court speciality, Heavenly Egg Roll. La Franconi's Golden Eye made an instant believer of me. Made from Absolut Kurant, Grand Marnier and fresh orange juice, shaken well, it was so good I would have been delighted to drink nothing else.

Abalone shark's fin soup with a light splash of red Chinese vinegar was accompanied with Casablanca -- Absolut Citron, Oloroso sherry and cranberry juice. Nice pairing.

Danger lurked in the cocktail that came with the entree of shrimp mousse atop broccoli, beef with portabella mushrooms, King's tangy spare ribs and lotus leaf rice. Floating on top was a perfect Chinese hot chile. I know these palate-searing chiles, so I carefully removed the chile and tasted what La Franconi aptly named Red Hot Pepper. It was not as hot as expected from a drink made with Absolut Peppar. I was grateful for that. The heat had been tempered with ruby port and a few drops of anisette.

There was a surprise video performance during dinner that turned into one of the tastiest dishes. First came a clip from a David Letterman show showing a bit of tomfoolery with Letterman and the owner of a New York noodle shop, Mark Kin Jing. In spite of Letterman's attempt to steal his thunder, Mark managed to perform well. Then the screen went dark, the curtains to the kitchen parted and there was Mark.

I've seen this ancient noodle-making feat many times, but never have I seen anyone make noodles so fine. Mark's noodles were as fine as strands from a cobweb. Those same noodles were fried, arranged in ovals atop a delicate pancake and offered to each table. How could anything so simple be so delicious. Mark will soon join the Dragon Court staff.

Our meal ended with an exceptional mango pudding and a Mandarin Tango cocktail made with Absolut Mandrin, Galliano, cream and white creme de cacao -- an inspired pairing.

I'm looking forward to finding some of these cocktails on local beverage menus. Remember, for best enjoyment of these drinks sip slowly between bites of food.

SHORT ORDERS

Raley's celebrates new stores: After a short delay, Raley's supermarkets (formerly Albertson's) were scheduled today to celebrate the grand opening of its 19 Las Vegas stores. The UNLV marching band, local and state dignitaries and family entertainment are part of the festivities. The daylong fun included games and prizes at every Raley's store. Also celebrating were all of the Albertson's employees who kept their jobs and seniority when Raley's acquired the stores.

Gordon Biersch Oktoberfest: Saturday from noon to 2 a.m. Gordon Biersch Brewery and Restaurant in the Hughes Center will host the "biggest ever" Oktoberfest on its parking lot. Free admission, five live bands, many specials and lots of space for mingling and mixing.

Beard dinner at Rio: A celebration of Great American Chefs is the theme for the James Beard Foundation Benefit Dinner at the Rio on Thursday. The list of participating guest chefs includes David Burke, Park Avenue Cafe, NYC; Ming Tsai, Blue Ginger, Boston; Jasper White of Boston; Ken Oringer, Clio's, Boston; Craig Shelton, The Ryland Inn, Whitehouse, N.J,; and Tom Colicchio and Claudia Fleming, Gramercy Tavern, New York City.

Host chef is Jean-Louis Palladin of Napa restaurant, where the dinner will take place; coordinating chef is Michael Ginor (Hudson Valley Foie Gras) from Great Neck, N.Y. The evening begins with cocktails at 6:30 p.m.; dinner at 7:30 p.m. The price is $150 for nonmembers; $125 for JB Foundation members. These dinners are always sold out. Members come from everywhere to attend. For reservations call 252-7626.

Jitters delivers: Food Taxi is now offering food delivery from a dozen or more local restaurants including Jitters Gourmet Coffee & Cafe, The Bootlegger, Macaroni Grill, Koo Koo Roo and more. Delivery times are Sunday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. A $10 minimum order is required and there's a $4.50 delivery fee. For menus for all of the restaurants, call 949-3663.

Roadrunner introduces new menus: Roadrunner Casinos & Saloons have introduced new casual dining menus at their Buffalo Drive location. The new items were inspired by Roadrunner's regular patrons who sometimes dine at the Buffalo location as often as five times a week. Among the many new specialties are a host of lighter items, including a veggie burger, veggie wraps, cashew chicken, a calzone Florentine and Kona fries. Hearty eaters have plenty of choices, too. Such familiar favorites as Cajun meatloaf, chicken fried steak and whiskey chili are always in place.