The Main Course — Muriel Stevens: Spiedini offers tasty treats at the Resort at Summerlin

Friday, Oct. 1, 1999 | 9:53 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@vegas.com or 259-4080.

There's no limit to the restaurant choices already in Las Vegas, and now there are more.

Recently opened at the Resort at Summerlin are Nevada Nick's, an original steakhouse; Hamada of Japan; J.C. Wooloughan, a 24-hour Irish pub with pub grub and brews; and Spiedini, offering reasonably-priced, comforting, earthy food in a beautiful setting.

Spiedini is owned by Master Chef Gustav Mauler and international architect/designer Paul Steelman. Steelman's design is open and relaxed. The lighting is intimate, but not dim. An exhibition kitchen gives a full view of the chefs at work. The elegant eight-seat bar, with food service, is warm and inviting. In just a few weeks Spiedini has become a hot spot for locals.

In Italian "Spiedini" can refer to either a spit for roasting or to skewered and roasted meats, fish, poultry and vegetables.

Spiedini roasts its meats and poultry over open flames. One of the most popular items is Spiedini d' Anatra, spice-rubbed duck with a caramelized orange sauce ($18).

Other spit-roasted items -- chicken, center-cut pork loin chop and a generous platter of chicken and pork loin -- range in price from $13.95-$15.95. All of the spit-roasted foods include Tuscan-style braised sweet and sour cabbage and garlic mashed potatoes.

Spiedini's chef, 22-year old Emilio Lascala, is from Milan. One bite tells all. This is pasta with a soul. The price range for the antipasti, salads and soups is $5-$9. A wild mushroom risotto (half order, $8; full order, $14) was another satisfying dish.

Many pasta and risotto dishes are offered; all are priced well ($12-$18). The gnocchi is not to be missed. The vodka cream sauce that accompanied my gnocchi was a fine pairing.

Among the selection of secondi -- main courses ($12.95-$36) -- are cioppino, grilled fish, osso buco, grilled lamb chops and steaks and lobster croccante, a brioche-crusted lobster tail on sauteed spinach with roasted potatoes.

The grilled salmon that one of my dining companions ordered was presented atop a delicious succotash-like mix made of fresh corn kernels and a small dice of Yukon Gold potatoes. So good.

We shared desserts ($4-$5): a traditional tiramisu, a carpaccio of fresh pineapple centered with raspberry sorbetto and a crisp cinnamon stick cookie and a Spiedini original -- panettone bread pudding. The panettone is home-baked, then sliced into chunks to make the pudding.

The loaf itself was so inviting (Gustav brought one to the table) I'm hoping they'll sell them during the Christmas holiday.

Spiedini has an excellent wine program. Bottles are priced well below the usual mark-up. There are a number of bottles at $20. The Caymus Conundrum that I favor is at Spiedini's for $42. The usual price around town is about $60.

There are a few half bottles and a selection of wines by the glass and domestic and imported beers.

Across the hall from the restaurant is a handsome cigar lounge also owned by the Spiedini partners.

Spiedini serves dinner daily, 5-11 p.m. Reservations are suggested. Call 869-8500.

Short orders

Clark County Medical Society wine tasting: CCMS will host a wine tasting on Tuesday at the Las Vegas National Country Club. The annual event, a membership reception, welcomes new members and gives seasoned members a chance to interact.

The program begins with a presentation from renowned wine expert and cardiologist Kosta Arger. Dr. Arger's program, "Wine and its Impact On Cardiovascular Health," will focus on the positive influences of wine on heart health. The program will be followed by a wine tasting and vendor fair.

For tickets and information call 739-9989.

New chef at Canyon Gate Country Club: Chef David Raneri is the new Chef de Cuisine at Canyon Gate Country Club. Chef Raneri worked most recently at Joachim Spichal's Pinot Blanc in Napa Valley and was the former executive chef at the acclaimed Oakville Grocery in Rutherford in Napa Valley. Most recently Chef Raneri moved to Las Vegas to help open Pinot Brasserie at the Venetian.

Emeril parties: "Every Day's A Party" is the latest cookbook from celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse. Every guest at the recent Andre Agassi Grand Slam for Children fund-raiser received a copy in their "goody" bag. Filled with hundreds of Louisiana recipes and ideas for celebrations with family and friends, the sizable volume is a must for home cooks.

Raley's produce: Check out the produce departments at the Raley's markets. Such an abundance of fresh herbs and exotic veggies. At last, a place to buy Italian parsley and other herbs that are fresh and fragrant. When you get the herbs home stand them upright in a glass of water and they'll stay fresh for quite a few days.

Honey Baked Ham opens in Henderson: The Honey Baked Ham Company out of Georgia has opened its third Las Vegas store at 1533 W. Sunset Road. In addition to the original succulent spiral-sliced hams, Honey Baked sells Honey Baked turkey breasts, barbecued ribs, boxed lunches, side dishes by the pound and desserts. Call the new location for additional info -- 567-7899.