The Main Course — Muriel Stevens: Baby shower at Le Cirque an elegant affair

Friday, Nov. 5, 1999 | 10:26 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednes.

Le Cirque and baby showers? Not the usual, I admit, for the upscale Le Cirque French restaurant at Bellagio, but it was wonderful. This was the first time I'd dined at Le Cirque during the day. I now know that the colorful circus themed dining room is a joy be in day or night.

Lovee Arum hosted the enchanting event honoring Marcelle Frey, the daughter-in-law of Susan Molasky.

Before lunch, guests gathered in the lounge for a champagne reception. Host Lovee, a masterful party-giver, pulled out all the stops for this special event. With skill and imagination she turned the dining room into a captivating, flower-filled fantasy.

The table linens, stuffed animal-and-flower centerpieces and clown candy dishes (souvenirs) were marvelous. The many baby gifts were arranged on tables that circled the room. Fanciful and festive, it was a glorious sight. Judging from the number of gifts, it was expected that we'd be there quite a while, but our host surprised us with a gift-opening ploy that will no doubt appear at other showers.

Between courses, guests at one table at a time would open a gift and show it to the honoree and other guests. It was an easy process that went smoothly and quickly.

Lunch was a delectable affair that began with Le Cirque's signature lobster salad -- large pieces of lobster meat on Bibb lettuce surrounded by sliced avocado, artichoke hearts, peeled tomato quarters and truffles. The entree, an original pasta Primavera, is a tradition at New York's Le Cirque, but is not on the menu here.

I've ordered pasta Primavera in many places, but none is the equal of Le Cirque's -- a melange of fresh vegetables and toasted pine nuts atop tender pasta in a light cream sauce beautifully executed by Le Cirque Chef Marc Poidevin.

The dessert orgy that followed was extraordinary by any measure. Le Cirque/ Circo Pastry Chef Patrice Caillot first presented a "fountain" of gorgeous pastries too numerous to describe. Then came a footed server filled with bombolini, traditional Tuscan doughnuts filled with Italian pastry cream, raspberry marmalade or chocolate cream that are sooooo good, and then a chocolate souffle "for the table" with a bowl of whipped cream. And, for good measure, a plate of small sweets, all irresistible.

It was a joyous afternoon filled with love and laughter. Honoree Marcelle, surrounded by friends and family members -- including her husband Robert, who arrived in time for dessert, her mother Sally Abraham, mother-in-law Susan, grandmother Tamara Borukh, aunts Shirley Borukh, Ruth Maasarani, Patty Frey and Riva Frey and many other Freys and Molaskys -- enjoyed every moment ... and so did the guests.

LUNCH AT CIRCO: Adjacent to the smaller, more elegant Le Cirque is the Maccioni family's Circo Italian restaurant. Le Cirque and Circo share a kitchen. Most of the desserts served at the shower are available at Circo.

Lunch at Circo is one of my favorite things. Pizzas, salads, pasta, as well as daily specials are available at lunch. The lakeside view is smashing. Prices are moderate for such fine food. A most enjoyable lunch spot or for an afternoon with tea and those decadent desserts.

Malibu Chan's:

Cathy and Warren Seta celebrated the opening of their cool new restaurant, Malibu Chan's, with a preview reception for friends, dignitaries and members of their family.

Located on the corner of Sahara and Cimmaron in the West Sahara Promenade Center, Malibu Chan's is a beautifully designed cafe and sushi bar featuring the innovative cooking of young Hawaiian-born Executive Chef Kevin Martinez. Martinez provided guests with a delicious sampling of his kind of fusion fare.

Among the many dishes offered were Tokyo ravioli, potstickers with ground pork, scallions, sesame and a pungent sweet and sour garlic sauce; Monterrey crab cakes made with Dungeness crab and sauced with a sweet chili buerre blanc; Thai chicken satay; nigiri sushi; California rolls; baby lamb chops; and awesome sesame-crusted salmon.

The comfortable sushi bar seats 20. Guests were mesmerized watching the three sushi chefs in action. The Setas are betting the time is right for a late-night, clubby restaurant. Hours are: Monday through Saturday 4 p.m. to 2 a.m.; Sunday 3 to 11 p.m.

The menu is still a work in progress. Chef Kevin says there will be many appetizers, salads, California vegetable pizza, seared scallops, rack of lamb, various Hawaiian fish and the sesame-crusted salmon.

The dress code is casual elegance. Reservations are not required, but are suggested for parties of eight or more. Call 312-4267.

Short orders

Bergin book signing: Spago Pastry Chef Mary Bergin will autograph copies of her latest dessert cookbook, co-authored with Judy Gethers, "Spago Chocolate," Saturday from 7-9 p.m. at Borders Books in The Best of the West center at Rainbow and Lake Mead. A sampling of goodies is included. "Spago Chocolate" is a collection of chocolate dessert and candy recipes developed at Wolfgang Puck's Spago in Las Vegas. Bergin began working with Puck when he opened the first Spago restaurant in West Hollywood in 1982. Ten years later she moved here to join Spago in the Forum Shops at Caesars.

Charlie Palmer Steak: For the first time, a Four Seasons hotel is partnering a restaurant. Four Seasons Las Vegas and Aureole founder Charlie Palmer have opened Charlie Palmer Steak. Formerly the First Floor Grill, Charlie Palmer Steak offers a complete menu of steaks, a seared veal chop, salmon and tuna, stuffed Maine lobster and Clark Farm chicken along with appetizers, salads and family-style side dishes. Entree prices range from $17 for the caramelized chicken to $52 for a 38-ounce rib steak for two.

Olives opens in D.C.: Todd English will preview his new Olives restaurant in the World Center Building in Washington, D.C., Nov. 12. The peripatetic chef/entrepreneur will be on hand to sign copies of his cookbooks.