Columnist Muriel Stevens: Puck’s mastery yields yet another fine dining experience

Friday, May 28, 1999 | 10:17 a.m.

A recent dinner at Lupo, Wolfgang Puck's new Italian restaurant at Mandalay Bay, was a reminder of the impact the personable chef/restaurateur has had on Las Vegas dining.

It took courage to be the first one to open an upscale eatery in Las Vegas, but Puck's career is filled with the daring that has brought him such recognition.

When he left the trendy Ma Maison in Los Angeles in 1982 to open the original Spago, he had already established his reputation as an exceptional chef.

How could he leave a restaurant where after six years he had gained such acclaim that the restaurant removed its telephone number from the directory? (Having the unlisted number was like winning an Oscar to the Hollywood star patrons.)

Puck says he was tired of doing the same old same-old. It was time for a new direction.

By now he had met his wife/partner, Barbara Lazaroff. Lazaroff is the owner of Imaginings Interior Design, Inc. and is renowned for her creative restaurant designs. She collaborates on all the restaurants.

With her encouragement and support Puck came up with the concept of Spago, a casual restaurant offering pizzas and a cuisine that was like no other. Puck named it California cuisine, and it took off like wildfire.

So, what did an Austrian chef trained in classic French cuisine know about pizza and Italian food? "Nothing," he told me during a recent interview. "I never studied in Italy so I made up my own. If I had been a traditional Italian cook, I would never have created pizzas with duck sausage or smoked salmon toppings. Tradition is great, but if you only have tradition, there is no progress."

Those first duck sausage- and smoked salmon-topped pizzas started a trend that continues today.

Spago Las Vegas was the catalyst for the celebrity chefs who followed, and its success encouraged Puck to add Chinois in the Forum Shops, a takeoff on his Santa Monica Chinois. Chinois was one of the first restaurants to offer a fusion of French and Chinese cooking. It took two years for California diners to understand this new kind of cuisine, but get it they did, and it continues to be a winner at both locations.

Puck's own experiences have given him an expert's view of what it takes to keep a restaurant team intact. He surrounds himself with outstanding executives and chefs.

Managing General Partner Tom Kaplan formed a relationship with Puck and Lazaroff more than 17 years ago. Kaplan oversees the operations of all the restaurants -- Spago in Beverly Hills, Hollywood, Palo Alto, Chicago and Las Vegas; Chinois in Las Vegas and Santa Monica; the new Lupo at Mandalay Bay; and Postrio at the Venetian, opening in the fall.

Executive chef/partner David Robins began his association with Puck when he was offered the position of Executive Chef at Spago Las Vegas. His expanded role includes developing new recipes and directing the chefs at all of the Las Vegas properties. He participates in many of Puck's annual events, including the annual Academy Awards dinner and more.

Along with Puck and Lazaroff, Kaplan and Robins have become an integral part of our community -- supporting many local causes and making many friends. They're quite a team.

Trattoria del Lupo Executive Chef Mark Ferguson came to Spago Las Vegas after graduating from the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. At the beginning he was one of the sous chefs. Before long he worked his way up to chef de cuisine. By the time Lupo was planned he was the choice for executive chef.

In preparation for his new role at Puck's first Italian restaurant, Ferguson was sent to Italy where he spent a month in the kitchens of many restaurants. When he returned, Puck says, the meal he created for his colleagues showed how well he had captured the essence of Italian trattorias.

Lupo was designed by the internationally renowned Adam Tihany. Lupo is a fine example of Tihany's skill in combining function with beauty while developing the theme. Lupo, with its sweeping ceilings, glass partitions and distinctive design elements, is hardly the average trattoria, yet it is at the same time rustic and comfortable. It charms from the moment you walk through the door.

Open for lunch and dinner, Lupo's menu changes often, depending on what's in season. Both menus offer antipasti, pizza, soups, pastas, and main courses. Prices are slightly lower at lunch time; selections are larger at dinner.

My dining companions were visiting friends. They have spent a lot of time in Italy. They thoroughly enjoyed the wonderful food and restaurant design.

The bread basket included heads of roasted garlic. We spread the creamy garlic on the ciabatta and focaccia breads. Such a delicious way to begin a meal.

Our dinner began with an antipasto of Italian meats -- shaved mortadella, proscuitto, salami, air-dried beef (bresaola) and a dish of the spicy preserved fruits of Cremona, and grilled vegetables with roasted peppers and tiny marinated artichokes. A thin-crusted, crisp pizza topped with sliced potatoes, shallots, Fontina cheese and thyme was a savory accompaniment.

Next, small black iron skillets with wood-oven baked shrimp in olive oil, seasoned with red chile and garlic. We mopped up all of the zesty oil with the bread.

Delicate skate wings (sting ray) were accompanied with a creamy green risotto topped with shavings of summer truffle.

Our tasting ended with thick grilled lamb loin chops seasoned with mint and lime. Simply prepared, properly pink, the chop was excellent.

We each had a different dessert, which we, of course, shared.

Pastry chef Stacey Cosor-White won my heart with the warm pear tart with vanilla ice cream. The rich tiramisu was served in a large cup; the selection of homemade sorbetti was accompanied with fruit. The panna cotta (cooked cream) included bits of arborio rice, a nice touch -- on the side, a three berry compote good enough to be a dessert by itself.

When the check came my friends remarked that it was much less than similar meals we'd enjoyed in Italy.

Antipasti prices at dinner are $11.75-$16; pizzas, $11.50-$13; pasta and risotto, $15.75-$26; main courses (mostly seafood, poultry and meats), $23.75-$32. Desserts are $6-$7.

Lupo is open daily for lunch, 11:30 a.m.-5 p.m., and dinner, 5-11 p.m., Sunday through Thursday; 5 p.m.-midnight, Friday and Saturday. Reservations are recommended -- 740-5522.