Columnist Muriel Stevens: Celebrity chefs own restaurants throughout resort

Tuesday, May 4, 1999 | 9:23 a.m.

A marvelous mix of restaurants owned by celebrity chefs are part of the allure of the newest Strip resort, the Venetian. A number of fine restaurants are included in this first phase of the resort, with more to be added as the hotel expands.

Joachim Spichal's Pinot Brasserie, Emeril Lagasse's Delmonico Steakhouse, Stephan Pyles' Star Canyon (his newest Mexican casual concept, Taqueria Canonita, will open shortly) were open for the VIP party Monday, and planned on being open later that night for the public, barring any unforeseen delays. The chefs and their food, from restaurants not yet open, were also on hand for the VIP gala.

There is a loose timetable for additional restaurant openings. Construction continues around the clock, so it's my bet that they'll meet the anticipated schedule. The 24-hour Grand Lux Cafe plans to be open by May 13 (give or take a few days).

California's Royal Star Chinese restaurant (Hong Kong style) and Piero Selvaggio's Valentino should be ready in June. By August, Wolfgang Puck's Postrio and famed New Yorker, Lutece, will be in place. And there's more -- Cannaletto, a new concept from the Il Fornaio group and Zefferino for authentic Venetian fare.

There is no buffet at the Venetian, but there is the La Strada Food Court, with striking arches, white pillars and plenty of marble in between the food booths, on the first level; the larger Market Hall Food Court is on the Canal Shoppes level.

* Brush up on French culture and you might win dinner for two at Joachim and Christine Spichal's Pinot Brasserie. All you have to do is name the 142 French luminaries listed on a canvas wall hanging in the Left Bank dining room. Here's a hint -- most are from the Belle Epoque (19th century).

This is just one of the tidbits shared with me by Spichal during our tour of the brasserie.

To gather the exceptional decor, the Pinot Brasserie design team, headed by Cheryl Brantner of Brantner Design, shopped dealer and flea markets and salvage yards in Paris and the small towns of Provence. What they brought back is charming and authentic. The handsome wood ceiling in the small Right Bank dining room was once a floor in a Normandy home; the limestone is from a chateau; the lovely antique murals and other pieces of art, hardware and accessories give Pinot Brasserie the feel of the real thing. It's a captivating theme.

I'm mad about the rare antique pine entrance from a hotel in Lyon (the gastronomic entrance to France) and the weathered coq d'or (gold rooster) that adorns the front entrance. Some of the pieces were being taken from the boxes while I was there. It was an unexpected treasure hunt.

This is the first brasserie for the Spichals, whose award-winning Patina and six Pinot restaurants in California are frequent choices for the rich and famous. They also own Patina Catering and four cafes inside museums.

Why a brasserie in Las Vegas? "I wanted to create a restaurant where each time you come you get a different experience. A place where each part of the restaurant is appealing and satisfying," Spichal said.

Originally, a brasserie was a place where beer and cider were made and sold. By the time the brasserie arrived in France it had evolved into a cafe-type restaurant that became a meeting place for the movers and shakers of the time -- artists, writers, musicians, Bohemians and politicians. They ate many of the same foods Pinot Brasserie offers.

The mouth-watering menu includes a variety of oysters, shellfish and the seldom-seen periwinkle. This tiny, tasty marine snail in a cone-shaped shell is worth the trouble it takes to get it out of the shell.

Traditionally dressed poissonniers (fishmongers) -- blue caps, rubber boots and oilskin aprons -- will man the oyster bar on the patio, and net the lobsters in the tank. Lobsters are then brought to the table, the preparation is discussed and then the poissonnier cooks the briny crustacean to your order.

Market priced shellfish platters for two or four are impressive. Appetizers, salads and a classic onion soup gratinee are priced from $7.50; main courses from $15.95. There is a plat du jour (plate of the day) for each day of the week -- suckling pig, rotisseried salmon, braised veal shank, rotisseried leg of lamb, Dover sole meuniere, a roasted veal chop and a crispy duck leg confit with sauteed foie gras and a white bean ragout (stew).

Family style dishes are sized for two to four. And there are such classic French desserts as Tarte Tatin (upside down apple tart), warm chocolate souffle with raspberry sauce and a strawberry-rhubarb clafoutis -- a thick, fruit- studded, omelet-like pancake. As far as I know, Pinot Brasserie is the first Las Vegas restaurant to offer this delectable fruit dessert from Limousin.

At this time, Pinot Brasserie will be open only for dinner. Spichal says that by the end of the month, lunch will be added. A separate lunch menu will be offered in the cafe. The outdoor oyster bar and cafe seats about 30.

Pinot Brasserie Executive Chef Brian Bennington was formerly with Patina. Cliff Martine is the general manager.

A pastis (an anise flavored aperitif mixed with water), a bowl of periwinkles and a clafoutis in Las Vegas? Oui.

For reservations call 414-8888.

* Stephan Pyles, the creator of Star Canyon in Dallas, was the first Texan to be inducted into Who's Who of Food and Wine in America. He is a cookbook author, has a cooking show on PBS, "New Tastes from Texas" (coming to Las Vegas in the fall), and is one of the founding fathers of Southwestern cuisine. I met him at the Dallas restaurant some years ago and have never forgotten his friendliness and hospitality.

Pyles, a fifth-generation Texan, welcomes guests to Star Canyon "where the snakes are meaner; the service is friendlier; and the grub is grander." I can't attest to the snakes, but the rest is no tall Texas tale.

When I spoke to Pyles recently, he said that to assure the same kind of food and service I experienced, he is moving key staff from his other properties to Las Vegas.

Through networking with friends and colleagues in Mexico and Florida, he has managed to put together an expert staff that understands the Star Canyon cuisine.

He does have some concerns that Las Vegas will become saturated with fine restaurants, but since his bold concepts are unlike any others, he feels Las Vegas will be good to him. Just open the doors, Stephan, and they will come!

Star Canyon's well-priced menu -- starters from $7; main courses from $19 -- showcases many signature dishes. Among them are a tamale tart with roast garlic custard and crabmeat; seared foie gras corn pudding tamale and a bone-in ribeye steak with pinto bean-wild mushroom ragout and red chile onion rings.

One signature dessert, Heaven and Hell, is so original that it's trademarked. Don't ask, just taste it and you'll know why the trademark.

Star Canyon at the Venetian is twice the size of the original, but retains the warmth through clever division of the space and the touches of cowboy whimsy.

When I visited Star Canyon, Jim Rimelspach, designer for Wilson & Associates, shared the story of the intriguing, branded pine ceiling. Each of the brands is the name of a Texas town. The actual hand-forged brands were custom-made for Star Canyon at the Venetian. Wilson & Associates also designed many of the public areas in the hotel, including the lobbies.

Rimelspach coined the phrase "Texas Chic" to describe the Star Canyon decor. It's "not a hoedown atmosphere, it's much more," he said. Call it what you will, the Star Canyon I know is a heap of pleasure. The recommended dress is dressy casual, no doubt to match the "Texas Chic" decor, but honey, this place is so laid back, comfy and hospitable, you'll just want to look nice.

Star Canyon executive chef is David Woodward; executive general manager is Marty Ritson; general manager, Roland Herman

For reservations, call 414-3772.

* A second Stephan Pyles restaurant is the Taqueria Canonita, canal-side by the Grand Canal Shops (opening later in May). This innovative new concept copies the authentic taquerias found in the marketplaces of Mexico. Moderately priced, the colorful eatery features a central exhibition kitchen, original Mexican folk art and dining canal-side.

Savory tacos al carbon filled with beef, chicken or pork are served on fresh, handmade tacos; tamales, tostados, gorditas and rellenos are made with grilled and roasted meats. Vegetable and seafood versions are also offered. Shrimp and mango quesadillas and spit-roasted, barbecued young goat are among the other specialties.

Pyles' sister, Alena Pyles, is the executive chef; general manager is Jon Newton.

For reservations, call 414-3773.

* Emeril Lagasse's Delmonico Steakhouse is simply smashing. Sophisticated and sleek, this classic American steakhouse "with Creole influences" is the the last word in design and appointments.

Dubbed "modern Tuscan," but hardly rustic, Delmonico's is a stylish, elegant dining room. A separate lounge with a circular bar that accommodates 60 will be especially appealing to males. It doubles as a cigar lounge.

There is wine storage everywhere, including a warehouse area that holds thousands of bottles. Wines are priced from $22 a bottle to many thousands.

Delmonico's kitchens are huge. When I walked into the kitchen all was calm and serene. Simmering vats of chicken and beef stocks were well under way in preparation for the opening. It was fascinating to see everyone so composed and ready to feed the crowds of diners that would attend the invitational opening.

Among the house specialties are a chicken for two, carved tableside; jumbo baked shrimp; a bone-in ribeye steak and double-cut pork chops.

Complete menus were not yet available.

Delmonico's Chef de Cuisine is Christian Czerwonka; general manager is Richard Zeigler.

For reservations (required) for lunch or dinner, call 414-3737. Jackets are preferred for men, but not required.

* Grand Lux Cafe is the first new concept for Cheesecake Factory Inc. in 21 years, David Overton, founder of the company, said.

The architectural features and decor are as authentic as Overton could make them. He traveled with his wife to Venice to assure that the cafe would be a match for the hotel. The ceiling in his hotel bedroom was so captivating that he photographed it and copied it in the restaurant -- it's lovely.

Grand Lux Cafe will have as large a menu as the Cheesecake Factory restaurants and it will be just as ecletic (here, too, menus were not yet completed).

"This is the highest level of casual dining with more complex recipes, Overton said. "The same quality that brought us fame is in place here. Only the environment is different."

Overton was inspired by such Venetian landmarks as Harry's Bar and the venerable Cafe Florian in St. Mark's Square.

Whatever the inspiration, it's a terrific look.

More than 150 items are featured on the menu, including a Breakfast Express, a selection of breakfast items, and a large selection of lunch and dinner choices. Desserts will be much grander, but will include the most popular cheesecake flavors, and some desserts will be grand enough to be plated as they do in fancier restaurants.

A separate retail bakery will proffer coffees of all kinds, pastries and other sweets, cheesecakes, and fill to-go orders.

Reservations are not accepted at Grand Lux Cafe. Executive Kitchen Manager is Alan Smith; general manager is Michael Pereira.

There's no question that the selection of restaurants at the Venetian has been chosen to appeal to every taste.

Restaurant Row on the first level of the Venetian is where you'll find Delmonico, Pinot Brasserie, Star Canyon, Grand Lux Cafe, and Valentino's and Royal Star (when they open).

Postrio, Canaletto, Chulas Restaurant and Cantina, Taqueria Canonita, Zeffirino and Tintoretta Bakery are on the Grand Canal Shoppes level.

This is a fascinating resort, even in the frenzy of last-minute activity. The hotel has so many gorgeous chandeliers and ceilings that I almost forgot I was in a casino as I walked from area to area. When I wasn't in a restaurant, I was risking a stiff neck from looking up at the magnificent vaulted ceilings and myriad artworks.

A grand opening of the Venetian is scheduled for the end of June.

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