Columnist Muriel Stevens: New Todai seafood buffet is worth its weight in sushi

Friday, June 25, 1999 | 10:32 a.m.

Muriel Stevens dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@vegas.com or 259-4080.

Makino Todai seafood buffet, in the Renaissance Center on Decatur Boulevard near Flamingo Road, is a remarkable value. Billed as a Royal Japanese Seafood Buffet, it features an endless display of sushi and nigiri sushi made fresh as you watch, by a cadre of sushi chefs.

This is no ordinary all-you-can-eat seafood buffet. Before making your choices, walk around the sushi bar, the salad section and the hot section. The displays are lovely. All but the hot foods are displayed on white porcelain platters. Everything is eye-appealing and tasty.

The food selections are almost as large as the dining room. I was fascinated by the speed of the sushi chefs. Always smiling, they sliced the fish and rolled the sushi with lightening speed. Someone told me they make as many as 12,000 pieces of sushi every day. I don't doubt those numbers.

Diners were filling plates with mountains of sushi as I watched. Never have I seen such a giant bowl of the pungent Japanese green horseradish wasabi. It's a traditional sushi condiment.

The selection at lunch is terrific. It's expanded at dinner and includes snow crab legs and other pricey seafood items. Judging from the wide array of foods at lunch, I don't know how anyone could taste even half of the many dishes.

In addition to the large selection of sushi, there's a salad section with platters of cucumber salad (sunomono), greens with small shrimp, cold tofu with dressing, delightful marinated Japanese green beans and green-lipped mussels.

The hot selection included tender short ribs, Japanese crab cakes, shells filled with baked seafood and rice, sauteed filets of a tender white fish, sukiyaki, baked mussels, glazed chicken wings, fried noodles, vegetables and rice and much more.

The dessert selection is outstanding -- platters of fresh fruits and numerous platters of desserts. Included among the selection were small slices of strawberry shortcake, chocolate roll, banana cake and a delightful assortment of cookies. The almond cookies -- wafer thin sugar cookies topped with sliced almonds -- are habit-forming.

This is just a small number of the dishes found here.

The sushi is, by itself, worth the price of the all-you-can-eat feast of Japanese specialties. Lunch is priced at $12.99 per person, Monday through Friday; $13.95 Saturday and Sunday. Dinner prices are $20.95; $21.95 on weekends and holidays. Seniors (65 and older) can get a 20 percent discount at dinner only (with ID). Youngsters under 5 feet are half-price.

A tiny service fee is added for the server. It added 38 cents to my bill. At a buffet, if the service is good, diners should leave $1 for each member of the party.

Todai restaurants can be found in San Diego and Denver. Makino is the name of the Las Vegas Todai owner. For more information, call 889-4477.

Border Grill

Those "Too Hot Tamales," Mary Sue Milliken and Sue Feniger, hosted a pre-opening night party at their Mandalay Bay Border Grill last Friday. It was a rousing success.

Guests got to sample dozens of Border Grill's specialties, including spicy barbecued shrimp, empanadas, Caesar salad, roasted chicken, mushroom quesadillas, a host of heady libations and a guacamole that was sensational. We couldn't stop eating the homemade tortilla chips and the zesty salsa. Such good food.

The restaurant, located near Mandalay Bay's convention center, has a pool's-eye view.

There are three parts to this exciting eatery. If you walk past the restaurant corridor to Border Grill, you'll be on the cantina bar and taqueria level. To get to the main dining room, walk the stairs or take the elevator. The dining room offers a complete menu of Mexican, South American and Central American specialties.

On the swimming pool level is the Mesa Grande communal table, a real ice-breaker for those dining solo or who just want to have fun.

With little fanfare to announce its opening, Border Grill was packed throughout the weekend. For reservations, call 632-7777.

Short orders

Las Vegas student honored: Las Vegas student Erin Armstrong has been named one of the 25 winners of the second annual Scholar Athlete Milk Mustache of the Year (SAMMY) award. All of the winners will receive a $7,500 college scholarship and appear in a special Milk Mustache ad scheduled to run in USA Today, Sports Illustrated and other national magazines. Erin gained recognition for being an outstanding athlete, academic and for her contributions to community charities and projects. With or without a milk mustache, she's a credit to our city. Congratulations, Erin.

Sammy's celebrates 2 years: Sammy's California Wood-fired Pizza celebrated the second anniversary of its first Las Vegas location, on West Sahara Avenue. The popular pizza restaurant made its reputation on the meal-sized salads, gourmet pizzas and such desserts as the signature "Messy Sundae," an oversized goblet filled to the overflowing with ice cream, sauces, nuts and, of course, a cherry on the top. Sammy's is open for lunch and dinner every day -- 11 a.m.-10 p.m. weekdays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. weekends. For takeout orders, call 227-6000. For home delivery through Waiters on Wheels, call 735-6325.

Flamingo Hilton nixes brunch: The Flamingo Hilton has discontinued the Champagne Brunch in the Flamingo Room. No word yet on whether the Champagne Brunch will return in the future.

Speedway Cafe now open: A 24-hour themed cafe has opened at the new Ramada Inn/Speedway Casino, Interstate 15 North at Cheyenne Avenue. Four themed dining areas include the Motor Speedway, the Yucca Drive-in (complete with car seats and a 100-foot screen), California Dreamin', and the Texaco Gas Station. The Finish Line bar is in the middle of the restaurant. Entrees bear names that follow the theme. The executive chef is John Clark; Ralph Braschler is the director of food and beverage. Speedway buffs can call 399-3297 for more information.

Garlic Cafe adds delivery: Garlic Cafe, 3650 S. Decatur Blvd. at Twain Avenue, is offering free delivery and $5.95 lunch specials. To receive a menu by fax, call 368-4000.