Columnist Muriel Stevens: The Jordans celebrate neighborhood dining at Rosemary’s

Friday, June 18, 1999 | 9:26 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@vegas.com or 259-4080.

When Chef Michael Jordan, former executive chef at Emeril's in the MGM Grand, and his wife/partner, Chef Wendy Jordan, opened Rosemary's Restaurant at 8125 W. Sahara Ave. in the Promenade shopping center, they gave new meaning to neighborhood dining. Michael is the executive chef; Wendy, also an accomplished culinarian, is the chef de cuisine and has an upscale catering business.

Through clever design and decor Rosemary's goes far beyond the usual store-front restaurant.

An intimate bar is in front of the dining room. Warm and inviting, the restaurant has many attractive features. Original artwork by local artist Wendy Shetler adds color and beauty to the walls. The effect is charming.

But a restaurant rises and falls on its food, not the decor, so I'm pleased to say that the food is original and delicious.

The grilled mahi mahi ($12) on a bed of crunchy vegetables that I enjoyed one day at lunch was cooked perfectly and reflected the Jordans' philosophy to serve only the freshest ingredients available and to cook them in a simple and creative style.

My dining companions and I shared an excellent white cheddar quesadilla with avocado relish and pico de gallo. We tasted each other's choices -- salad comito ($8.50), a savory mix of chicken breast, goat cheese toasts, onion compote and greens; and a marvelous garlic soup. I was so intrigued by this delicious soup that I just had to learn more about it.

Caramelized onions and garlic are cooked in chicken stock and a broth made from the rinds of imported Parmagiana Reggiano. The soup is thickened with the signature potato bread rolls and topped with garlic-flavored croutons made from the same bread. The garlic flavor is gentle, not overwhelming. The combination of ingredients and herbs (bay leaf and thyme) is ideal.

Served with all meals are homemade potato bread rolls a la the Midwest -- when the flavorful rolls come out of the oven they're brushed with melted butter and lightly sprinkled with kosher salt. So good.

The lunch menu features appetizers ($6.50-$8), soups and salads ($3.50-$8.50) and entrees ($10-$17).

For dessert we shared Wendy's seasonal sorbets and ice creams and an exceptional creme brulee. The lovely silky texture of the custard comes from long, slow cooking at low heat. The ice creams are tempered to be barely soft, but still firm. No easy task to get ice cream to stay at this consistency. Rosemary's has a special freezer that maintains it at the right temperature to keep it that way.

The larger dinner menu showcases such appetizers ($6.25-$10.50) as wild and exotic mushrooms with basil, Parmesan and white truffle oil; lamb carpaccio and a potato cake rich with escargot and braised leeks.

Included among the entrees are lamb shanks in red wine, grilled ribeye steak and Norris Farms quail.

The Jordans purchase many of their ingredients from local farmers and purveyors. They use locally-raised quail and chicken and recently added wild salmon from California's Half Moon Bay. It's on the menu tonight.

Have at least one dessert ($4.50-$5). They're too good to pass up. Specialty coffee drinks and coffees are another feature. There's a good selection of wines by the glass priced from $5, and a choice wine list.

Rosemary's Restaurant serves lunch Wednesday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner, Wednesday through Sunday, 6-10:30 p.m.; Sunday Brunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. The bar, presided over by Mike Shetler, is open from 11:30 a.m. until closing. The restaurant manager is Rick Powers.

Everyone should be so lucky as to have a mother-in-law like the talented and beautiful Maggie Bock (Wendy's mother) who is the public relations director.

Suggested dress is upscale casual. Reservations are strongly suggested, especially on weekends. Call 869-2251.

Royal Tea at Four Seasons

From Saturday through June 26, a special Royal Wedding Tea at the Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas will celebrate the nuptial of England's Prince Andrew to his betrothed, Sophie Rhys-Jones.

The Royal Wedding Tea will be served in the lounge of the Verandah Cafe 2-5 p.m. Royal Tea price is $21 per person; $26, with a glass of champagne.

This special tea was designed by Eric Deblonde, executive chef of the Four Seasons London. Twelve Four Seasons properties will serve the Royal Tea.

Royal Wedding Teas co-host Victoria magazine will award a copy of its coffee table-sized "Romantic Weddings" each day to one lucky winner.

Included with the Royal Wedding Tea are: tea sandwiches of lobster and avocado; smoked salmon tartar; scrambled egg and caviar; spicy honey guinea fowl, asparagus and chives, and passion fruit scones; a pastry swan with whipped cream; summer pudding (a delectable bread and berry concoction); raspberry creme brulee and mixed berry tart.

Reservations are recommended. Call 632-5000.

Afternoon tea is a regular feature at the Four Seasons. Guests may order tea with scones, Devonshire cream, preserves and tea breads ($10), biscotti and cappuccino ($8) or a full English tea ($19 per person). Included are scones with Devonshire cream and preserves, fruit cake, assorted tea sandwiches and tea. Coffee may be requested.

Tea is served every afternoon, 2-5 p.m. It's always wise to make reservations.

Of course, dining at the Four Seasons is more than just tea. The First Floor Grill restaurant is a handsome room with a delightful menu.

Executive Chef Wolfgang von Weiser constantly creates new and exciting additions to the menu.

Most recently a variety of Hawaiian fishes, including fresh moi (pronounced moy) were added. Moi is considered one of the most delicate flavored and most popular of the fish found in Hawaii. It is no longer available wild, but has been successfully farmed by aquaculture. Even through farming, moi remains in short supply and sells for premium prices. It is now available at the Four Seasons.

Chef Wolfgang told me that a whole roasted moi (for one) is featured on the new menu. A trio of grilled Hawaiian fish is also offered. The selection depends on availability. The Hawaiian fishes will be flown in daily. There are many more choices from the grill and rotisserie -- rotisseried leg of lamb Moroccan style, spit-roasted Maine lobster or chicken, grilled veal chop, New York sirloin and more.

There are appealing desserts, too, from Four Seasons Pastry Chef Jean-Luc Daul. His small lemon tarts covered with a billow of Swiss meringue are wonderful.

Dinner at the colorful Verandah Cafe is another Four Seasons dining option. Verandah's menu includes everything from appetizers to desserts plus a few meal-size sandwiches ($12-$13) and pasta and pizza ($14-$15). Salads ($12-$13) are meal-size, too.

Reservations are accepted, but not required.

Verandah Cafe offers breakfast, lunch and dinner Monday through Friday, 6:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Reservations are suggested for Sunday brunch. Call 632-5000.

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