‘Salt & Pepper’ more than just spices

Wednesday, June 16, 1999 | 9:44 a.m.

Salt and pepper, simple every day staples. Without them, cooks would be at a loss.

No one appreciates more the use of salt and pepper in cooking than Michele Anna Jordan, author of "Salt & Pepper" (Broadway Books, $24.95).

In the book's acknowledgements she says she would like to call "Salt & Pepper" a love letter, a personal tribute, but that there were too many people to thank.

We should all thank Jordan for this interesting volume.

Any cook worth her or his salt (pun intended) will enjoy the information and anecdotes about salt and pepper.

In addition to recipes there are a terrific glossary, tasting notes and sources for getting additional information.

A sampling of recipes follows:

Roasted Pepper Salt

1 1/2 tsp Sichuan peppercorns, coarsely crushed and sifted to remove husks

3 Tbs kosher salt or sea salt

Place peppercorns in a small, heavy skillet set over medium heat and toast, agitating the skillet slightly until the peppercorns become fragrant, 3 or 4 minutes. Reduce heat to low, add salt and continue to roast, shaking the pan gently and stirring contents frequently with a wooden spoon until the salt just begins to take on a little color, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. Crush the mixture using a mortar and pestle, suribachi or electric spice mill. Store in an airtight jar. Makes about 3 tablespoons.

(Although this aromatic salt has many more traditional uses -- with chicken livers and pates, for example -- I find it delicious on popcorn. )

Snapper Fillets Baked in Salt

6 snapper fillets, about 6 oz each

2 tsp crushed black peppercorns

1 tsp ground cumin

1/2 tsp cayenne pepper

3 or 4 lb rock salt or kosher salt

2 egg whites

12 large grape leaves, blanched or in brine

2 lemons, cut into wedges

Preheat oven to 400 F. Set snapper fillets on a work surface. In a small bowl mix together pepper, cumin and cayenne; sprinkle over both sides of each fillet. In a large bowl combine salt, egg whites and 1/2 cup water, mixing to form a loose, sticky paste. Spread a layer of this salt paste about 3/4-inch thick on the surface of a large baking sheet or other ovenproof container. Put a layer of grape leaves down the center and set the fillets on top of the leaves; cover fillets with remaining grape leaves and add remaining salt paste on top, completely burying the fish and grape leaves.

Bake for about 20 minutes, testing with a thermometer and removing fish from oven when the temperature is about 130 F. Let the fish sit for 5 to 10 minutes, during which time its temperature will rise a few degrees as it continues to cook in its salt oven. Carefully break apart the salt and extract the fillets. Serve with lemon wedges and one of the suggested condiments.

Note: If using grape leaves preserved in brine, first rinse under running water for a minute or two and dry thoroughly. To blanch fresh grape leaves, bring a large pot of water to a boil and add about 2 teaspoons of kosher salt for each quart of water. Stack 4 or 5 leaves together and use tongs to hold them in the brine for about 30 seconds until completely limp. Remove from brine, rinse in cool water, drain in a colander and dry thoroughly. Fresh leaves that have not been blanched will crack when you try to fold them. Serves 4 to 6.

(You can bake any fish -- filleted or whole -- in a crust of salt without wrapping it. However, it is easier, especially for the home cook who may use this technique only occasionally, to get the hang of it if the fish is wrapped in something that will shield it from direct contact with the salt. Although the fish itself does not become salty -- that is, the salt does not penetrate and flavor the flesh -- a substantial quantity can cling to the outside of the fish and it can be awkward to brush off. I suggest protecting both fillets and whole fish from the salt by wrapping them in grape leaves, seaweed or sprigs of herbs. In addition to making the process easier, it makes a beautiful presentation and, if herbs are used, provides additional elements of aroma and flavor. In this recipe, the salt is combined with egg whites and water, which makes a harder crust than one with just salt.)

Roasted Strawberries With Black Pepper

2 pint baskets strawberries with stems removed

3 Tbs sugar

1 Tbs freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbs balsamic vinegar

Rinse the strawberries in cool water, place in a strainer or colander and shake off most of the water. Slice the strawberries about 1/8-inch thick, place in a large bowl and sprinkle with sugar. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 4 hours.

Preheat oven to 375 F. Toss strawberries with black pepper, add balsamic vinegar and put strawberries and all of their juices into a large saute pan or a large ovenproof dish. Roast for 8 to 10 minutes, until juices are bubbling and strawberries are hot but not mushy. Divide among individual dishes and serve immediately. Serves 4.

(Serve these strawberries with vanilla bean ice cream, black pepper ice cream, or a spoonful of mascarpone and with cookies such as biscotti or spicy sugar cookies alongside. )

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