Columnist Muriel Stevens: A preview of Nevada Nick’s at the Resort at Summerlin

Friday, July 23, 1999 | 9:21 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@vegas.com or 259-4080.

It was a glorious summer morning when I made my way to the Resort at Summerlin. The resort is not yet complete. The casino and one hotel building are up and running. What's in place so far is attractive and well-designed. The view from valet parking is beautiful; a waterfall and lush foliage are a pleasant sight while waiting for your car. At 11 a.m. the valet parkers were busy and the casino was full. Good omens for a successful future.

I was there to meet with restaurateur Nicholas "Nick" Nickolas, president and chief executive officer of the Harmon-Nickolas Restaurant Group. Nicholas is known for his upscale Nick's Fishmarket eateries in Boca Raton, Fla., the Top of the Tower at the Boca Raton Resort & Club in Philadelphia, Pa., and two in Chicago. Another Nick's Fishmarket will open in Washington, D.C., in September.

The original Nick's Fishmarket in Honolulu celebrated its 30th anniversary last year. I dined there shortly after it opened and have never forgotten the delicious experience. Nickolas' restaurant at the Resort at Summerlin is a new concept, Nevada Nick's-An Original Steakhouse. Nevada Nick's will open Aug. 1.

Personable and outgoing, the dynamic owner was the ideal guide. With us was Nevada Nick's chef de cuisine, Kevin Graham. Graham has had an illustrious career at fine restaurants in Europe, and in the United States as executive chef at the Grill Room in the Windsor Court hotel and Graham's, both in New Orleans.

What makes Nevada Nick's an original? Both Nickolas and Graham say they're "looking back to go forward." They intend to change the image of the traditional steakhouse, yet will incorporate the best features of past steakhouses with new ideas of their own. They will excel, Graham said, by taking roasting and grilling, the earliest methods of cooking, and adapting them to the millennium without the heaviness associated with the past.

Both Nickolas and Graham are themselves originals. Theirs is a new relationship. They met by chance and clicked. Both have moved to Las Vegas and stressed that both owner and chef will be on the premises to ensure that their standards are always met.

What most restaurants call service Nickolas calls "hospitality." "Service you get from retailers. At Nevada Nick's we'll offer hospitality along with a menu that's unlike any existing concept in the community."

Strong words for a restaurant not yet open, but I've seen Nickolas at work so it's a good bet that he will bring the same warmth and quality to Nevada Nick's that made such a success of his Nick's Fishmarket restaurants.

The design of the restaurant is smashing with curved ceilings, acid-washed copper accents, rich woods, spacious dining areas and an open kitchen.

A piano bar and lounge dominates the entrance. Jordan Mozer developed the design, a terrific take on classic American West with a contemporary spin. There are few corners -- the dining rooms and bar flow smoothly into each other.

The menu is an interesting mix of steakhouse and New Orleans. This is no standard steakhouse menu. Of course there are steaks, but there's much more. The appetizer selection includes: oven-roasted oysters with a red pepper glaze; Louisiana crab cakes with spiced sauce remoulade; homemade smoked sausage with mussels and clams; and Japanese seared beef. Appetizer prices start at $8; soups and salads from $6.

In addition to steaks and prime rib, Nevada Nick's offers: Nick's bayoubaisse (named by Graham); roasted "yard bird" (rotisseried chicken) with spinach and pine nuts; whole roasted catfish; air-dried duck with a coffee-orange glaze; and for vegetarians, a Napoleon of grilled vegetables layered with grains. All meats are cooked over Hawaiian Keawe (pronounced kevee) wood. Entrees are priced from $18.

Nevada Nick's has a prime location in the restaurant and shopping section, totally removed from the casino. When completed, the outside areas will be filled with gardens and patios. Even under construction I could envision the beautiful sights to come.

Parties are already being booked. For reservations (a few weeks away) call 804-4901; for catering or other information call 804-4906.

Wynns celebrate Puck: Steve and Elaine Wynn hosted a 50th birthday bash at Bellagio for their friend, Wolfgang Puck. Family members, friends and colleagues of the still-boyish-looking celebrity chef came from near and far for the milestone event.

The party "given with love" by the Wynns showcased foods from: Bellagio's Executive Chef Grant McPherson and Chef Michael Patton; Shintaro Chef Sean O'Connell; Olives Chef Victor LaPlaca; Sam's Chef Sam DeMarca; and Osteria del Circo (and Le Cirque) Executive Chef Marc Poidevin.

In the Monet room where the party took place, food stations representing each restaurant were set around the room. Clearly the center of attention was the enormous dessert area designed by Bellagio's stellar Executive Pastry Chef Jean-Phillipe Maury. Tom Cook, director of catering, and his expert staff made it all look easy.

The abundant wines and spirits were a gift from Puck's friends Camille and Larry Ruvo.

Puck's wife, Barbara Lazaroff, and his young sons, Cameron and Byron, and Puck family members Amanda and Klaus Puck and Maria and Josef Puck were there; and so were Bellagio President Bobby and Donna Baldwin; Kevyn Wynn; Barbara Greenspun; and many more of Puck's admirers who danced the night away in celebration of his birthday.