Columnist Muriel Stevens: Gigi’s Southern cooking is a real down-home treat

Friday, July 2, 1999 | 9:58 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at 259-4080 or muriel@vegas.com.

Housed in a converted Chili's on Maryland Parkway near Sahara, Gigi's Southern Cuisine is a good regional American eatery.

Chef/owner Gigi Holloway and her son/partner, Rory Holloway, have created a comfy, cozy environment that includes two dining rooms and a separate bar.

Gigi -- that's not her given name, but the name given to Holloway by her grandchildren and great-grandchildren that she prefers to go by -- cooks family recipes that have been handed down through many generations.

Portions are huge; prices are moderate. Be prepared to pig out. Traditional Southern food is not light, nor is it, for the most part, delicate.

I learned this at an early age from my maternal Southern relatives. I visited the family most summers when I was growing up and still treasure memories of Damson plum jam, crusty fried chicken and blueberry cobbler made from berries bought from a farmer who came weekly to my Aunt Sara's house.

We spent a lot of time at the table enjoying hearty, homespun meals and spirited conversation. Weary from overindulging, we would then retreat for recovery to the massive porch that surrounded the house. Aunt Sara called it languishing.

I shared that story during a recent Gigi's meal with two dining companions. We would have enjoyed a little "languishing" after our dinner.

Gigi's dinner menu includes a variety of appetizers, many entrees ($13.95-$18.95), a host of a la carte side dishes ($4.50 each) and desserts ($3.50). Each entree includes two sides.

Anticipating what was in store, we shared one appetizer, crab cakes. Pleasant, but no brass ring.

The entrees were wonderful. My catfish filet was a whopper. Crusty and crisp on the outside and sweet and tender inside, this is what catfish is all about. I probably wouldn't have chosen the candied sweets served with the catfish, but they were very good. And so was the wilted cabbage that also came with the fish. Gigi's serves a terrific homemade tartar sauce as an accompaniment. Unctuous and pungent, it was irresistible.

The friend who ordered the house-smoked spareribs was overwhelmed by the size of the rack. The meaty ribs came with macaroni and cheese and collard greens. Gigi's macaroni is baked. The top is cheesy and crisp, the macaroni soft, yet not mushy. It's the best kind of Southern comfort food.

Southern restaurants are not the place for serious dieters, but my other companion was delighted with her grilled chicken Caesar salad.

Of course, we tasted and shared each dish. There was plenty left over to take home.

It was not easy to choose from the list of appealing entrees. We wanted them all ... well, maybe not the pig's feet. Southern fried chicken with collard greens and potato salad; turkey meatloaf; fried and glazed Louisiana turkey with blackeyed peas; lamb shanks in a special sauce; short ribs; dirty shrimp; and the house seafood gumbo are just some of the many offered.

Desserts are traditional: sweet potato pie, upside-down pineapple cake, pineapple-coconut cake, peach cobbler and bread and banana puddings.

We had to have at least one dessert, so we ordered a peach cobbler a la mode, with three spoons. It was just right.

Gigi's serves dinner daily, 5-11 p.m. Reservations are suggested for weekends.

Gigi's is open for lunch Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.

Featured are sandwiches and salads. The dinner menu is also available.

The sandwich selection ($5.95-$7.95) includes fried chicken; fried fish on a bun with chips; turkey meatloaf; pork chop sandwich; a rib sandwich and chopped barbecue on a bun. All sandwiches include a choice of potato or macaroni salads, French fries or baked beans.

Hefeweizen at Biersch

Summer at Gordon Biersch brewery restaurant,on Paradise at Flamingo Road, is celebrated with German Hefeweizen beer and a menu with choices designed to enhance the flavor of the beer: gnocchi sauteed with shallots and garlic, sauced with a basil pesto; proscuitto-wrapped snapper atop a creamy polenta; chicken Parmesan; and an 18-ounce porterhouse Florentine ($12.95-$22.95).

Biersch makes an authentic Hefenweizen (Bavarian-style beer) through the use of imported Weihenstephan yeast. The only difference between the German classic and the Biersch version is freshness. Biersch makes its Hefeweizen in small batches to assure the best flavor.

Also featured on the Hefeweizen menu are a chilled seafood salad ($9.95) that includes scallops, shrimp, mussels and calamari with a light lemon dressing; a grilled portobella mushroom salad ($10.50); and a dessert of fresh berries topped with an orange-flavored creme fraiche.

The new beer and menu are available now.

Short orders

Caesars celebrates July 4: Caesars Palace Palatium Buffet will offer a special Champagne Brunch Sunday from 8:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Included are a variety of American favorites -- fried chicken, barbecued ribs, roast ham, chilled seafood, and a glorious array of salads, breads and side dishes. After 4 p.m. steamed Maine lobsters will be available for an additional $12. A lavish dessert assortment and bananas Foster, made to order, are included. The price of the July 4 buffet is $18 for adults; $9.33 for youngsters 4-12 years; free for kids 3 years and under. Prices include beverages, but not tax.