‘James McNair’s Cakes’ offers treats to please the soul

Wednesday, Aug. 18, 1999 | 10:06 a.m.

James McNair has made a career writing single-subject cookbooks. In his latest effort, "James McNair's Cakes" (Chronicle Books, $16.95), he presents a collection of cakes that are designed to please.

This is the 26th title in his best-selling series of cookbooks. Three have been nominated for Julia Child Cookbook Awards.

McNair gives bakers all the information needed to have spectacular results. Most of the cakes are relatively quick and easy to make; a few are time consuming, but well worth the effort it takes. McNair's take on the old fruit cocktail cake is many times better than the original.

Some of the recipes are from McNair's grandmother's private files and reflect a Southern heritage. With a role model such as his grandmother, it's not surprising that McNair was baking cakes at a young age.

There is also a good selection of frostings, fillings, glazes and decorations. Just mix and match.

Plantation Cake

1 c. coarsely chopped macadamia nuts

1/2 c. firmly packed light brown sugar

1/4 c. (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 can (20 oz) pineapple chunks packed in juice

3 c. all-purpose flour

1 1/2 c. granulated sugar

1 Tbs baking powder

1 tsp salt

3 eggs, at room temperature, lightly beaten

2 tsp pure vanilla extract

1 c. grated or shredded fresh coconut or packaged sweetened coconut

1 can (14 oz) sweetened condensed milk (not evaporated milk)

Position racks so that the cake will bake in the middle of an oven and preheat the oven to 350 F. Grease a 13x9-inch pan; do not line or flour it. Set aside.

In a bowl, combine nuts, brown sugar and butter. Using your fingertips, blend well. Set aside.

Drain pineapple chunks through a strainer set over a bowl; reserve the juice. Cut each chunk into 4 equal pieces, add to juice and set aside.

Place flour, granulated sugar, baking powder and salt together in a strainer or sifter and sift into a bowl. Repeat process two more times. Whisk to mix well. Add pineapple and juice, eggs and vanilla and stir until well blended.

Scrape batter into the prepared pan and smooth the surface with a rubber spatula. Sprinkle nut mixture evenly over top. Bake until cake springs back when lightly touched in the center with your fingertip and a wooden skewer inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, about 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a skillet, place coconut over medium heat and toast, shaking the pan or stirring frequently, until lightly browned; do not allow to burn. Pour onto a plate to cool.

Just before the cake is done, in a small saucepan or microwave-safe pitcher, heat condensed milk over medium heat or at full power until warm and pourable.

When cake is done, remove the pan to a wire rack. Drizzle the condensed milk over the warm cake, sprinkle with coconut and set aside to cool completely.

Cut into squares and serve directly from the pan. Makes 12 servings.

(McNair says, "Ed Broussard, my late friend from Baptist seminary days in New Orleans, often baked a 'fruit cocktail cake' to end his wonderful Cajun feasts. It was made with canned fruit cocktail and pecan topping and was the inspiration for this gooey confection. I've given the venerable favorite a tropical treatment by combining the best of plantation crops: pineapple, macadamia nuts, vanilla, sugar and coconut. Pineapple chunks as packed seem a bit too large and crushed pineapple to indistinctive in this cake, so I take the time to cut the chunks into smaller pieces.")

Grand Turtle Cake

1 c. pecans

3 c. all-purpose flour

2 c. sugar

1/2 c. unsweetened natural cocoa (not Dutch-processed)

2 tsp baking soda

1 tsp salt

3/4 c. canola or other high-quality vegetable oil

2 Tbs distilled white or cider vinegar

2 tsp pure vanilla extract

1 c. chopped finest-quality semisweet chocolate or chocolate chips

1 1/2 c. Caramel Sauce (see recipe below) or high-quality commercial caramel or butterscotch sauce

Position racks so that the cake will bake in the middle of an oven and preheat the oven to 350 F. Grease a 13x9-inch pan; do not line or flour it. Set aside.

Toast pecans, then chop and set aside.

Place flour, sugar, cocoa, baking soda and salt together in a strainer or sifter and sift into a bowl. Whisk to mix well. Add 2 cups water, the oil, vinegar and vanilla and whisk or beat with an electric mixer just until the ingredients are well blended.

Scrape 3 cups of batter into the prepared pan and smooth the surface with a rubber spatula. Bake until top is just set, about 15 minutes.

Remove pan to a work surface. Sprinkle chocolate chips and toasted pecans evenly over partially baked cake, then drizzle evenly with Caramel Sauce. Cover with remaining cake batter and smooth the surface. Bake until cake feels firm when lightly touched in the center with your fingertip and a skewer inserted into center of cake comes out moist but not gooey, about 35 minutes longer.

Remove pan to a wire rack to cool completely.

Cut into narrow slices or squares and serve directly from the pan. Makes 12 servings.

(McNair says, "My mother introduced me to this delectable creation inspired by the original Neiman-Marcus chocolate-caramel-pecan candies sold as turtles. Since my nephew Devereux has always called his grandmother Grand Turtle, I've dubbed her cake idea Grand Turtle Cake. By any name it is a grand and gooey sensation that is easy to prepare and disappears quickly.)

Caramel Sauce

2 c. sugar

1 c. heavy (whipping) cream

1/2 c. (1 stick) unsalted butter

Position a large bowl of iced water alongside the stove top.

In a heavy saucepan, preferably made of stainless steel or unlined copper, combine the sugar and 1/3 cup of water and stir well. Place over medium heat, cover and heat for about 4 minutes.

Remove the cover and continue to cook without disturbing the mixture until it begins to color then continue cooking, slowly swirling the pan occasionally to spread the color evenly, until the mixture turns a rich amber; this will take about 8 minutes after removing the cover from the pan. During cooking, if sugar crystals begin to form around the sides of the pan just above the bubbling syrup, brush them away with a pastry brush moistened with water. As soon as the syrup reaches the desired color briefly place the pan in the iced water to halt the cooking, then set aside.

In a heavy saucepan, place the cream over medium heat and bring almost to a boil. Stirring constantly slowly add the hot cream to the syrup. Place over medium heat and stir constantly until the mixture is smooth. Remove from the heat, add the butter and stir until the butter is melted. Serve immediately, or cool to room temperature, then cover tightly and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks; slowly reheat, stirring frequently, over low heat or in a microwave oven. Makes about 2 cups, for 8 servings.

(Simply sensational with warm chocolate cake or unfrosted apple or spice cakes. Always devote your total attention to the process of caramelizing sugar. To prevent the melting sugar from crystallizing, do not stir it once it is dissolved until it is completely melted. )

Variations

Caramel Syrup: Substitute 1 cup warm water for the cream. Omit the butter. Use for soaking cakes or as directed in recipes.

Chocolate Caramel Sauce: Finely chop 8 ounces bittersweet (not unsweetened) or semisweet chocolate, add it to the warm finished sauce and stir until the chocolate is melted.

Coffee Caramel Sauce: Substitute 1 cup hot brewed espresso or other strong coffee for the cream, or stir 1 tablespoon instant espresso into the warm cream.

Nutty Caramel Sauce: Toast 1 cup pecans or other nuts, then chop and stir into the finished sauce.

Thin Caramel Sauce: Prepare the sauce with water as in the Caramel Syrup variation, then add the butter.

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