Columnist Muriel Stevens: Sampling the Chinese buffets around town

Friday, Sept. 11, 1998 | 10:04 a.m.

Making the rounds of the Chinese lunch and dinner buffets can tax the willpower of any sensible eater -- there are so many temptations.

My research mission was basic: Try to find out why there is the sudden flurry of Chinese buffet-only restaurants. The answer is a simple one: People like them. Prices are reasonable -- most are under $7 at lunch and under $10 at dinner. They're as cheap as fast food for families. And, having observed a number of children making their way around the buffet -- all but the smallest ones managed on their own -- I am convinced that given the right circumstances, kids are just as adventurous in their eating as adults.

The food at all of these buffets is pretty much the same for lunch and dinner, but there are differences. Lunch usually includes more dumplings; seafood and more costly foods are included at dinner.

Of the three buffets I dined at, only the Classic Buffet House at Tropicana and Pecos was built to be a buffet-only restaurant. Chung King at Spring Mountain and Jones was a full service restaurant before converting to the buffet concept and so was Dynasty in Green Valley. In October, Chung King will open a second buffet at the location on Desert Inn Road that was formerly Gates Barbecue. It will probably be larger and more attractive than the original.

When it comes to style and decor, the Classic Buffet House is my first choice. Not only are the surroundings appealing, but owners Jame Huang and Sophie Ideker are congenial and welcoming.

Sophie is a delight. She kept a watchful eye on the buffet as we chatted. Any diner in need of information about the dishes got her immediate attention.

Mostly Chinese, with a few Japanese dishes thrown in, the selection at dinner included in the shell shrimp, green lip mussels, soups and dozens of meat, poultry and noodle and vegetable combinations. The sushi is not worth the effort, but it's one of the few things that disappoints. A separate, small dessert buffet includes gelatin and fruit. Unlimited hot or iced tea are included.

Classic Buffet House serves lunch ($6.95), 11 a.m.-4:30 p.m. and dinner ($8.95) Sunday-Thursday. Hours are extended to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday.

Dynasty in the Trader Joe shopping center on Sunset and Green Valley Parkway is not very attractive. It has a sometimes brusque owner, and its dark and dreary interior belies the fact that the food can be quite good.

Lunch ($5.95) is served from 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner ($7.95-$9.95) from 5-9 p.m. Dinner prices vary when barbecued pork and ribs or seafood or fried shrimp are featured. Unlimited amounts of hot or iced tea or lemonade are included. Dynasty's buffet also includes a decent wonton soup.

Soft, custard-like ice cream, gelatin, fresh fruit and fortune cookies are all good. The delicious ice cream is served at lunch and dinner.

Chung King makes up in food variety what it lacks in ambience. Diners line up long before the restaurant opens at 11:30 a.m. Beat the lunch time rush by going after 12:15 p.m.

Diners pay when they enter so there's no waiting for a check. Lunch, 11:30-3 p.m., is $6.05; dinner, 5-9 p.m. is $8.50.

Busy and noisy, Chung King offers the largest selection of food.

It also offers the largest assortment of desserts. In addition to the ubiquitous gelatin and fruit, there are Chinese crullers shaped like the long Mexican churras, but not as sweet, and delicious little egg custard tarts.

Many Asian restaurants serve a lunch buffet, but none are as extensive as those served in the buffet-only restaurants.

If the teapot or iced tea glass is kept full, tip $1 per person.

If at first --

Can the fourth time be the charm for the restaurant in the Sunrise Center on Maryland Parkway that began life as the Elephant Bar?

It opened as the Elephant Bar, remained under the same name for a while, then changed hands and became the Safari Club. Before long it changed once again and became the Park Avenue Steak House. I may have missed a change or two, but the pattern of ownership and changes has not been good.

Each time it changed names, I ate there hoping that the new owner would have the savvy to turn it around.

When it became the Park Avenue Steak House, I waited to see if it would last. After a decent amount of time had passed and it was still there, I took a chance that this time it would work.

The friend I dined with told me that the owners were well-financed and were in it for the long haul. She had dined there the week before and had enjoyed it so much that she convinced me the time was right to go.

Imagine our surprise when we learned that once again it had changed hands and would soon be known as Jimmy's -- named for General Manager/Partner Jimmy Maddin.

During dinner, Maddin worked the few tables that were occupied. He's an attractive, personable dude with charm aplenty. The problem is that's only part of what's needed here.

A good neighborhood restaurant with reasonable prices might make it. Park Avenue is not it.

There was not yet a printed menu. Our waiter and Maddin informed us that when printed, the menu would only include appetizers and desserts. Entrees would always be recited. That's not my favorite way to order, especially when you have to ask the prices. What's more, the price that appeared on my bill, $26.95, for a dish of pasta with seafood (mostly squid), was $3 higher than the price quoted by the waiter. The price was changed without question, but what if I hadn't remembered? Our bill, without the tip for two entrees, one salad, one bottle of mineral water and one coffee, was $60.

There's no doubt that Maddin's intentions are good, but they are not realistic. In order to turn around this large, never successful restaurant, he needs a more reasonable menu with bistro-style food -- and the prices should be listed.

Short orders

*Food and Beverage Directors elect

Sujoy Brahma of Harrah's is the new chairman of the Food and Beverage Directors Association of Nevada. Elected to serve with Brahma were: Vice Chairman -- Kim Pang of Boulder Station; Secretary -- John Carlson of Main Street Station; and Treasurer -- Kurt Weinrich of the Boyd Corporation. The association is dedicated to helping those wishing to have a career in the food and beverage industry, and to assisting local charities. Thus far the association has donated almost $200,000 to scholarships and causes. On Saturday, at Angel Park, the fund-raiser known as "Putting on the Ritz" will offer as a first prize a trip to Scotland, courtesy of Johnny Walker. Call Lloyd Wentzell, Riviera VP Food and Beverage, at 794-9602 for more information.

*New at Coyote Cafe

Chef Tommy Birdwell at Coyote Cafe in the MGM Grand is offering a series of five-course price fixed dinners ($65 per person) that will change monthly. First up is "Straight from the South," featuring a jumbo lump crab meat cocktail with lemon remoulade; South Texas venison chili; a salad of western greens with fried okra croutons and black eyed pea chow chow; El Paso sweet corn fettuccine with crawfish etouffe; and for dessert -- chocolate pecan pie with bourbon ice cream. Add $35 for four wines and Tio Pepe sherry with dessert. Reservations are suggested. Call 891-7349.