Eateries further progression into world of fine dining

Friday, Oct. 16, 1998 | 10:57 a.m.

Dazzling is the word that best applies to the restaurants at the Bellagio.

The bewitching Bellagio has captured such culinary luminaries as Todd English, Jean-Georges Vongrichten, Julian Serrano, Michael Mina and Sirio Maccioni. Bellagio's success in attracting such notable restaurateurs has brought Las Vegas closer to its goal of becoming a serious dining destination.

It was Charlie Trotter, owner of the acclaimed Chicago restaurant that bears his name, who during his brief time at the MGM Grand predicted that within the decade Las Vegas would become a serious restaurant contender.

With the opening of Bellagio we've taken a giant leap forward.

Wolfgang Puck was the leader, giving Las Vegas dining credibility by opening Spago Las Vegas in the Forum Shops at Caesars. His bold step into such unknown dining territory encouraged Santa Fe's Mark Miller to open a Coyote Cafe and Emeril Lagasse to leave New Orleans long enough to open Emeril's New Orleans Fish House. Both restaurants have had great success at the MGM. Spago has been a smash since its opening five years ago. It wasn't too long before the Rio enticed another renowned chef, Jean-Louis Palladin, former chef of a namesake restaurant at the Watergate in Washington, D.C., to open Napa. The race to dining glory was on.

Although Steve Wynn had never before shown an interest in celebrity chefs, preferring instead to develop his own stars, he said recently, "It's the direction the world is taking, so Bellagio went after the best."

And he got them.

* English is an award-winning chef, cookbook author, and host of the PBS cooking series "Cooking In." He is the owner of Olives in Boston, where a "no-reservation" policy has diners lining up nightly for his imaginative Mediterranean-style cuisine. The same "no reservation" policy, and rustic comfort food, is in place at the Olives in Bellagio. Olives, a casual cafe, is situated between the Giorgio Armani and Hermes Boutiques. Prices are moderate to moderately expensive.

* Vongrichten is a four-star chef who has been defining his own style since he trained as a chef in his native Alsace in France. A trip to Asia in 1980 set his course. Known for the exceptional French/Asian food in his New York City restaurants -- Vong, JoJo, and Jean-Georges, where reservations have to be made weeks in advance -- he has taken yet another approach in Bellagio with Prime, a spectacular a la carte steakhouse.

Designed by Michael di Santis, this stunning dining room shares a garden patio with the adjacent Picasso restaurant. Prime is only typical in what it offers -- prime meats, seafood and chops. It is a totally new steakhouse concept. Among the many features are the extensive wine list and a handsome bar where the martinis are made by experts.

* Serrano came to Bellagio from the venerable Masa's in San Francisco. I haven't dined there in years, but so memorable is Serrano's cuisine, I can still describe the last dinner.

Picasso, where Serrano will reign, is a jewel of a room designed around the Bellagio collection of original Picasso artwork. The cuisine Serrano created for this enchanting restaurant will take its inspiration from the the South of France and Spain where Pablo Picasso spent so much of his life. Featured on Picasso's menu are price-fixed degustations; tasting dinners that enable diners to sample many dishes at one sitting. The wine list represents the best vineyards in Europe.

* Adjacent to the Bellagio Gallery of Art in the inviting Conservatory, home to the beautiful Botanical Gardens, is Aqua, Michael Mina and Charles Condy's world-acclaimed San Francisco seafood restaurant. The sumptuous decor includes floors of rare woods, terrazzo tile and marvelous fabrics. Luxurious, yet relaxed, Aqua is a wondrous place. The a la carte menu reflects Mina's affinity for fish and seafood. His food pairing is masterful; a stew of salsify (oyster plant) and poached oysters plays on the complementary flavors of the ingredients.

* The first notable restaurateur to join Bellagio was Sirio Maccioni, owner of the ever popular New York restaurant Le Cirque and the more casual Osteria del Circo. With him are his sons, Mario, Marco and Mauro. Maccioni matriarch Egidiana was the inspiration for the upscale, yet homey Tuscan cuisine. Circo's menu is moderately priced and includes pizza; Le Cirque's is more upscale and costlier. Both offer a variety of grilled or rotisseried foods.

Circo and Le Cirque are situated side-by-side, sharing a compelling view of the lake.

* Situated on one side of the gorgeous lobby is a beautiful Petrossian bar. What a splendid place to people-watch.

Petrossian is the largest buyer and importer of Russian caviar to France, the United States and Canada. Caviar and fine smoked salmon are served all day; afternoon tea service ($14.95) is from 2-5 p.m. Included are English tea sandwiches (two per person), freshly baked scones with clotted cream (two), assorted miniature pastries (two) and a choice of selected teas. Champagnes, a variety of vodkas and bar drinks complement the caviar. A la carte desserts are also available.

* Shintaro Japanese restaurant; the delightful Jasmine for Chinese fare; the upbeat "World of Noodles;" and Sam's American for regional American food are other fine dining options. The 24-hour Cafe Bellagio and The Buffet at Bellagio offer a wide selection of moderately priced food in surroundings that are exceptional.

It won't be long before additional celebrity restaurants open in the hotels still under construction. In March '99 Mandalay Bay will join the dining frenzy with Las Vegas branches of New York restaurants -- Charlie Palmer's Aureole and China Grill. Later in the year the Venetian and Paris hotels will add even more restaurants.

Las Vegas as a prime dining destination? It's looking better all the time.

Muriel Stevens' restaurant column appears Fridays. It will return to the Accent section next week. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun.com or 259-4080.