Columnist Muriel Stevens: Memorable meal was at home on the Range

Friday, June 12, 1998 | 10:13 a.m.

For one night only, the Range Steak House at Harrah's departed from its regular menu to provide a glorious epicurean dinner for members and guests of the Las Vegas Chapter of the Chaine des Rotisseurs.

Chaine member Sujoy Brahma, Director of Food and Beverage Services at Harrah's, created an outstanding menu. Working with Harrah's Executive Chef Jeffrey Frederick, Assistant Executive Chef Tim Bowen, Executive Pastry Chef Jim McNamara, Speciality Room Chefs James Wong and Brian Kay, Cold Production Chef Rita Peden and Chef Tournant (chef in training) Bradley Owens, they produced a memorable event.

The Range Steak House is a beautiful tiered room that affords every table a view of the Strip.

Before dinner there was a reception in the handsome lounge. A lavish food display included ice carvings of cactus and other desert decor designed to give it the look of a mini Grand Canyon. Arranged within the setting were stations with Peking duck and a Southwest sushi bar -- a totally new twist on the traditional Japanese, with cilantro rice in place of the vinegar sushi rice, and rattlesnake sushi (a big hit) that was wrapped in tortillas instead of seaweed, then cut to look like sushi.

Other Southwest sushi choices were Santa Fe tuna, Tequila-lime shrimp and Navajo salmon nigiri and "sushi" rolls of roasted poblano shrimp, grilled chili-vegetables and avocado and crawfish. Flutes of "J" Jordan sparkling wine were a fine match for the zesty fare. Adding to the reception pleasure was the duo known as The Image -- Doug Taylor on the electronic keyboard, and Dihann Hall. Both sing popular songs from the '40s through today.

Among those enjoying the lively reception were Claire and Hector Mon (president of Harrah's Nevada), Camille and Chaine Bailli (president) Larry Ruvo, Sandy and Mike Mecca, Ann and Brian Menzel, Jill and Adam Carmer, Marcie and Lloyd Wentzell, Nancy and Jack Weinstein, Janet and Andrew Blumen, Frank Rigley, Ginette and Peter Jaramillo, Steven Geddes, Mark Ervin, Sandy and Roger Peltyn, and Denise and Gustav Mauler.

The dining room was a lovely sight with cloths of desert blue and overlays of copper lame. Candles cast a gentle glow over the tables.

To "amuse" the palate, dinner began with a tiny flan of roast vegetables, layered with basil and presented in a real egg shell. Saffron mussel soup was a lighter version of the usual creamy mussel soup -- a clear fish stock with mussels, shallots, white wine and a light hint of saffron.

Porcini-crusted sea bass was an intricate, delicious dish. Dried porcini were ground into a powder and mixed with finely-ground almonds. The sea bass was cut into scallop-like shapes, then dusted with the porcini-almond flour and cooked. It was presented with fresh porcini, Yukon Gold potatoes, fava beans and drizzles of mustard seed and roasted chili-chervil oils.

A crisp, slightly tart Dom Perignon sorbet accented with lemon zest prepared the palate for the interesting entree, a game bird trilogy of leg of pintelle (West African Guinea fowl), breast of moulard (duck) and breast of pheasant. Each bird had its own savory sauce. A galette with a base of thinly-sliced carrots, topped with a tomato and herb risotto was placed in the center of the plate -- perched around it were the Pintelle leg and the slices of duck and pheasant breast.

Salad was another delight. A quail egg, cooked sunny side up, topped a salad that included baby spinach, paper-thin slices of crisp wild boar bacon, enoki mushrooms and tiny red and yellow pear tomatoes. The salad was dressed with white truffle oil and exotic black tree vinegar.

An interesting and delicious Gorgonzola pear tart included a base of Grand Marnier sponge cake, a honey-pepper tuile cookie as a collar and a filling of Gorgonzola and fresh raspberries. Fanned over the top were thin slices of poached pear. The sauce was made from the poaching liquid, creme Anglaise and candied ginger. A touch of whimsy was the garnish -- a cookie extended with a sprig of pineapple mint topped with a fresh raspberry.

Elegant wines were enjoyed with each course: Argyle Reisling 1996, Palliser Sauvignon Blanc, Domaine La Roche Chablis Grand Cru Le Clos 1995, Argyle Reserve Pinot Noir 1995 and, with dessert, Domaine Pieade Beaume de Venise 1996.

After dinner Range Manager Gene Cataldo, who had coordinated the smashing event, led the way back to the lounge for cigars, cognac and port.

Could this evening be duplicated for another private party? Alas, no. This was a one-time dining occasion -- the kind that memories are made of.

Short orders

*Once again, the Rio is bringing together an awesome collection of chefs to participate in a benefit dinner for the James Beard Foundation, June 24. Six celebrity chefs will join the Rio's celebrated Jean-Louis Palladin for a "Culinary Exploration of the New World" -- Norman Van Aken, Nobu Matsuhisa, Douglas Rodriguez, Mark Militello, Susur Lee, Makota Tanaka and Michael Ginor. Tickets are $125 for James Beard Foundation members and $150 for non-members. For reservations, already in short supply, call 252-7626.

*Main Street Brew Pub in Main Street Station has added a number of new items to the menu. Beer-battered onion rings and a combination sampler with hot wings, chicken tenders, calamari and fried shrimp are among the new appetizers. Salad choices now include a classic Caesars, a giant chili Verde pork tostada and a sirloin chili taco tostada. Among the new entrees are a one-pound T-bone steak, St. Louis-style barbecued pork ribs, barbecued shrimp and Southwest chicken pasta. New pizza toppings: Hawaiian-style, Thai crab, and a combination pizza where diners choose their own toppings. All of the new dishes are moderately priced.

*Tonight at 6:30 p.m, Big Dog's Cafe and Casino at 6390 W. Sahara and the UNLV Football Foundation will host A South of the Border Smoker and Fiesta featuring Mexican and South American food. A portion of the proceeds will benefit the Foundation. UNLV Football Coach Jeff Horton will be on hand for the evening. The reception begins at 6:30 p.m.; the variety of food stations start serving at 7 p.m. Tickets are $75 per person or $125 for two. Don't dress. This is a casual party. A handful of tickets may still be available. Call Big Dog's at 876-3647.

*Boulder Station continues its Winemaker's Dinner Series June 16 with Walter Raymond, winemaker at Raymond Winery in Napa Valley. The dinner will take place in Pasta Palace. The four-course dinner includes a shrimp appetizer, a spinach and arugula salad, entree and a dessert of dark chocolate ganache with a wild berry fool (a creamy custard). The winemaker's dinner is priced at $50 per person, all inclusive. For reservations, call 432-7771.