Columnist Muriel Stevens: Papamio’s restaurant a Sam’s Town treat

Friday, Jan. 16, 1998 | 9:49 a.m.

Sitting in Papamio's Italian restaurant in the wondrous indoor park at Sam's Town was a reminder of the enjoyment of al fresco dining.

When three friends and I decided to do a mini progressive dinner at the longtime western-themed hotel, we expected it to be fun, but it was even more than we anticipated.

Our meal began in Willy and Jose's Mexican restaurant. The funky cantina decor and Tex Mex food haven't changed since it opened. The prices are pretty much the same, too. Willy and Jose's kitchen is under the command of Chef Kiko Granadas, who's been at Sam's Town and Willy's for 17 years. He knows his diners and knows what they like, so the menu includes all the longtime favorites, and a few new dishes.

Chef Kiko's salsa is a delight. It's made fresh every day from the chef's own recipe. It's a fresh vegetable garden in a bowl. Everything at Willy and Jose's is made from scratch, including the masa for the tamales.

We had to remember to eat sparingly, since we would be going on to Papamio's and Billy Bob's Steakhouse, but it wasn't easy. Our appetizer plate included cheese crisps ($4.50) -- wedges of deep-fried flour tortilla topped with melted Jack and cheddar cheeses -- chiles and green onions are available by request; a guacamole and sour cream version ($4.75) is also available. Also included were beef taquitos, addictive small, crispy corn tortillas filled with chicken or shredded beef, served with taquito sauce, guacamole and sour cream; and wedges of quesadilla, flour tortillas sandwiched with cheese, chilies and green onions. All delicious.

We had to tear ourselves away from the delicious food and cozy surroundings. Willy and Jose's manager, Jenice Souza, pointed us in the direction of the park where our next stop was Papamio's.

Before going to Papamio's we took a ride to the second floor observation deck for a full view of the delightful park. Peaceful and beautiful, it was a fine diversion before the next stops.

Papamio's Italian Kitchen serves American-Italian food in a setting that's pure bliss. The outdoor patio is, without question, the most in-demand seating. It's not always available, so be sure to request patio seating when making a reservation. Even then it might not be available, but Papamio Manager Rick Hunt and his staff always try to accommodate requests.

Papamio's menu is designed to please a wide range of tastes, so it features the tried-and-true favorites so popular with the Sam's Town clientele. Pizzas ($7.45-$8.95), salads ($1.75-$5.95), a host of pasta and sauce choices ($8.45), and veal, chicken, fish and beef entrees. All of the entree prices ($9.95-$13.95) include a bottomless salad.

We dined lightly and pleasantly on antipasto misto -- grilled and marinated vegetables, roasted bell peppers and buffalo mozzarella, a house salad and scampi with a creamy sauce that just begged to be sopped up with the garlic bread.

The next stop was Billy Bob's.

Billy Bob's Steakhouse and Saloon is a happy place right out of the Old West. The western garb worn by the staff is wonderful, immediately setting the mood of the restaurant. Billy Bob doesn't mess around with any frills. This is the West, my friends, and hearty eating is what it's all about.

We shared a number of dishes -- barbecued ribs, the signature ribeye, filet mignon and rotisserie chicken. Side dishes included sauteed mushrooms, baked beans and an awesome baked sweet potato that must have weighed more than two pounds. The bright orange colored flesh of the tuber was perfection. My friends slathered theirs with the brown sugar and butter that comes with it; I enjoyed mine au naturel.

What a treat! One potato served all four of us with portions left over. All dinners ($12.95-$21.95) include a choice of soup or salad, and a choice of a baked sweet or white potato, or Billy chips, or Texas rice. Loaves of freshly baked, seed-studded sourdough bread are also included.

With gusto, we dug into this feast. Everything was appealing, but the tender, succulent ribeye was my favorite. For a good sampling of Billy Bob's food, try the value-priced "Western Roundup" -- $18.95 per person, a minimum of two required. Included are a choice of soup or salad, barbecued pork ribs, barbecued beef and chicken, barbecued brisket, cole slaw, baked beans, choice of potato or rice and the sourdough bread. Take-home boxes are provided. Chef Adrian Hall oversees both Billy Bob's and Papamio.

We returned to Papamio's for dessert -- raspberry sorbet with fresh raspberries, and Papamio's own version of tiramisu.

Lunch, dinner and a Sunday brunch with live jazz are offered at Papamio's.

I asked Food Director Rudy McMillan and Executive Chef Walter Worotylko if a dinner such as the one we enjoyed was available to everyone. It can be arranged, but requires the same kind of planning we did to make it happen. Of course, weekends and holidays are out. We dined on a Monday night.

Sam's Town restaurants offer good food at affordable prices. The park is an excellent attraction. Benches and seating throughout the park invite visitors to linger. I especially enjoyed watching a family, seated pond-side, observing the beaver at work. It's only an illusion, but what a lovely one it is.