Muriel Stevens: Fellini’s gives Las Vegans a taste of Tuscany

Friday, Jan. 2, 1998 | 11:29 a.m.

Fellini's Executive Chef Chaz LaForte spent four years in Tuscany. When I talk about Vin Santo dessert wine and contucci -- the small, biscotti-like cookies that are dipped in the wine -- he knows what I'm talking about. He promises to have the delicious combination available soon.

Fellini's is located on the site of the former Trattoria del Popolo at 5555 W. Charleston. Partners Bob Harry and Jim Girard are the owners of the popular Tap House, an earthy sports bar and restaurant adjacent to Fellini's but light years away in style.

LaForte and his brother-sous chef, Frank, were ready for a change, so after being approached by Harry and Girard they closed their Newport Beach restaurant, the award-winning Pasta Pasta, and moved to Fellini's. They brought with them Pasta Pasta chef Memo Perez.

The changes made in the former decor, by the owners, have turned Fellini's into a comfortable restaurant complete with a new bar, new tabletop accessories and relaxed, congenial atmosphere.

Chef Chaz and his crew make all of the breads and desserts. In the center of the dining room is a lovely European-style dessert table, always adorned with a bouquet of fresh flowers.

Although Tuscan in spirit, the food is a mix of regional Italian with some specialities of Provence. A hearty, satisfying bouillabaisse, served with the traditional peppery rouille, and grilled slices of French bread glistening with olive oil, was strictly the culinary team's version. Be aware that it is served as they do in France. Except for the tiny scallops, all of the seafood is in the shell -- two kinds of mussels, clams, langoustine, lobster and even a stone crab claw were included. The bouillabaisse was one of the daily specials offered each day. At $23.95, it was a fine value.

Entree portions are generous. Fellini's is most gracious about having diners share antipasti ($4.95-$11.95) or salads ($3.25-$8.95) or entrees ($12.95-$21.95) or desserts. The entree selection includes chicken, pork, veal, lamb and a bistecca Fiorentina, the famous steak of Florence. In Florence, the steak is a T-bone cut to order for up to three diners. Fellini's serves an aged New York steak marinated and seasoned as they do in Florence. It's on my list of dishes to be tried.

A good variety of pastas are available ($9.50-$17.95). One night my companion and I shared a pasta and an entree. Our pasta choice -- arrabbiata con melanzane, penne in a spicy sauce with grilled eggplant -- was excellent. Sharing allows two diners to sample more dishes.

The Chefs LaForte and Chef Perez make everything from scratch, including the delicious focaccia bread served with meals.

One day, for dinner, I'm just going to order a variety of antipasti from the tempting selection -- grilled eggplant and caramelized onions on a roasted pepper pesto; a sizable bowl of New Zealand and Pacific mussels in a tomato and white wine broth; grilled polenta studded with sun-dried tomatoes and topped with homemade sausage and roasted peppers; a homemade mascarpone torta layered with toasted pine nuts, pesto and mozzarella; and two versions of fresh artichokes -- charbroiled and served with a roasted garlic mayonnaise or stuffed with seasoned bread crumbs and aged Parmesan. Maybe I'll order both.

Of course, there's more.

Expect the unexpected at Fellini's, especially with the desserts. The creme brulee at a recent dinner did not have the expected caramelized crust. The custard was delicious, but it was topped with a caramel sauce that included nuts. It was very good, this Fellini's version, but not what I anticipated.

Service is excellent. Our server one night, Sergio, was accommodating and caring, even through my many questions and requests. And, it was nice to see Franco, formerly of Nicky Blair's, now working at Fellini's.

Live piano music by Doug Taylor or Paul Stevenson is played at just the right level.

Fellini's serves dinner Monday through Saturday, 5-11 p.m. Reservations are suggested. Call 870-9999.