Columnist Muriel Stevens: Bellagio-bound Olives a culinary treat in Beantown

Friday, Aug. 14, 1998 | 9:59 a.m.

Boston was the starting point for a recent vacation in New England. Olives, owned by Todd and Olivia English, is the hottest restaurant in Boston. When the stunning Bellagio opens in October it will have the first Olives to open outside of Boston. Of course, I had to dine there.

All I knew about Olives was that Todd English was a bold, creative chef, that he had a way with food that had won him numerous awards and that participants in the international Zagat restaurant guide had rated Olives as Boston's top restaurant.

English and his staff deserve all the accolades. Olives food is exciting and wonderfully flavored. Every bite is an adventure.

There were four of us at dinner. We agreed to each order different dishes and share them.

Olives offers a fixed menu plus a menu that changes daily. Featured are an abundance of fish and dishes made with Maine lobster, Olives Classics (longtime favorites) hand-crafted pastas that are remarkable, and meats and poultry that are wood-grilled, slow-smoked and slow-braised, or roasted in a brick oven. The results are glorious.

Dinner begins with a dish of black and green olives in olive oil and a basket of homemade breads. We munched happily as we discussed the menu and asked dozens of questions of our wait person, Carla. The service she provided was outstanding, and so was her knowledge of every dish on the menu.

For appetizers we chose: Olives spin on ribolitta (Tuscan bread soup), a fanciful conceit made with a flaky herbed pastry shell filled with thick ribolitta and summer beans, topped with chunks of lobster meat and finished with pesto; sformato di Parmigiana -- warm Parmesan pudding with fresh peas, wilted pea tendrils and a mascarpone cream sauce -- unctuous and wonderful; a crisp pastry shell filled with boneless baby-back barbecued pork ribs piled high on a creamy fresh corn mixture and topped with an avocado salsa; and wood-grilled foie gras atop toast made on the griddle.

A black truffle flan with a succulent ragu of exotic mushrooms was an elegant dish. The savory stew captured the intense flavor of the earthy mushrooms, and our hearts. We swooned over this one. The kitchen makes tortelli filled with butternut squash, brown sugar, sage and Parmesan that are unlike any I've tasted. Deceptively simple, the plump tortelli are exceptional.

Choosing the entrees wasn't easy. We wanted everything we saw passing by, but finally agreed upon a whole roasted flounder stuffed with Maine crab meat and sauced with a brown butter artichoke vinaigrette, and two of the day's specials -- wood-grilled duck breast on a bed of thick, free-form pasta with a duck confit (duck cooked in its own fat) and roasted peaches and cumin-braised lamb shank on a creamy carrot risotto.

Because we were sharing, the chef had thoughtfully removed the meat from the shank, sliced it and placed it back on the bone. It was a kindness that's reflected in everything the staff does.

At Carla's recommendation, we ordered the falling chocolate cake with raspberry sauce and the vanilla bean souffle with soft vanilla ice cream as a sauce. These desserts require advance notice so we ordered them with the meal. A good thing, for we probably wouldn't have ordered dessert after such an abundant meal and we would have missed delectable treats.

Todd English was away doing his radio show when we arrived, but we were still there when he returned and we had a chance to chat. Sous chef Joseph Brenner, who works side-by-side with English and prepared our food, cooks like a master.

I watched as Brenner and his team of 10 (maybe more) chefs worked almost elbow-to-elbow turning out dish after dish of perfectly prepared and presented food.

The Olives menu at Bellagio will be similar to the one I enjoyed so much in Boston and will also include some dishes from Figs, English's other restaurant.

Olives accepts reservations only for parties of six or more. The Bellagio Olives will have the same policy.

It will also be the same warm and intimate size. Olives seats about 109 in the main dining room and bar, and about 30 in the private room, which is also used for overflow when it's not required for parties.

English will be here for the opening of Olives and will return regularly. Victor LeBraca will be the Bellagio chef. He and general manager Peter Smith are already at Bellagio. LeBraca will shortly wed his fiancee Liesl, who works at the Boston Olives. The charming Liesl told me she is looking forward to living in Las Vegas. We're looking forward to your arrival, Liesl.

Short orders

*The Olives Table

To understand the Olives kind of cooking, pick up a copy of "The Olives Table" cookbook by Todd English and Sally Sampson (Simon and Schuster, $32). It's not easy to find here. I went to three bookstores before finding it at the Border's bookstore at Sahara and Decatur. They had two copies. I was happy to find the recipe for the tortelli filled with butternut squash included among the many recipes.

*Zagat extends time

The Zagat Restaurant Survey has extended the deadline for returning the completed questionaire to Sept. 15. All participants will receive a copy of the 1999 guide as soon as it's completed, so don't delay sending yours in.

*Senior dining deal

Boulder Station continues its celebration of life after 55 with a 50-percent discount on any Feast Gourmet Buffet at breakfast or lunch, Monday through Friday. All it takes to participate is a visit to Boulder Station's Reward Center to pick up a free Boulder 55+VI$ sticker. The offer is good through Aug. 31.

*Samurai Sam's opens

Samurai Sam's Teriyaki Grill has opened its first Las Vegas location at 7550 W. Lake Mead in the Gateway Plaza at the corner of Lake Mead and Buffalo. Samurai Sam's features teriyaki bowls and wraps, sushi, salads, Japanese noodles and other speciality dishes. All of the menu items are low-fat and cholesterol. Most of the dishes contain less than 15 percent of their calories from fat. Prices range from $2.79 to under $7. Hours are Monday through Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. For more information, call 838-9444.

*Broiler at Palace Station

The Broiler at Palace Station is back in action and better than ever. The steak and seafood restaurant has resumed its regular hours. Monday through Friday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, noon through 11 p.m. New at Palace Staion is the Salsa Station, a quick-serve Mexican food outlet. Such popular Mexican fare as tacos, fajitas, enchiladas, burritos plus charro wings, quesadillas and nachos are offered. The recent storm damage repair is well under way. Most of the restaurants are open, as is the hotel tower, the race and sports book, the Bingo room and 50 percent of the casino.