Columnist Muriel Stevens: DI renovation keeps best of best

Friday, March 14, 1997 | 11:59 a.m.

WHEN the announcement was made that the Desert Inn would undergo a major remodeling, longtime admirers of the jewel-like property were concerned it would lose the intimacy and warmth that made it so special. It's been that way since it was built in the '50s by the late Wilbur Clark and for many years carried his name.

Not to worry. The property, now owned by ITT, is only being upgraded to keep up with the times. There is no intent to increase the size. According to Brian Menzel, Desert Inn president and chief operating officer, the company fully appreciates the unique qualities of this choice hotel and wants to keep it that way.

Work completed so far includes the restaurants and the casino. Still to come are a new facade and other embellishments. For the first time, access to the country club will be available from inside the hotel.

On my way to a recent dinner at Portofino, I had an opportunity to view the almost completed casino. New features include towering palm trees, plush carpets and elegant decor. It's reminiscent of European casinos and should be even more gorgeous once the lighting effects are complete.

Dining at Portofino gives a full view of the casino. Those with balcony-side tables have the best sight, but even the banquettes have a view.

There is little left of the informal Italian restaurant Portofino once was. It is now a grand dining room with fine food and matching service. Of course, there is still a selection of pastas and Italian dishes.

Executive Chef Arnauld Briand was involved with every aspect, from the new menu to the exquisite selection of china and table appointments. Today's fine-dining rooms have tables that are as well-dressed as those who dine there.

Such costly finishing touches are reflected in the menu prices, which are considerably more than they used to be, but not excessive for the quality of food and the style with which it's served.

The assortment of hot and cold appetizers ($7.50-$14) includes a number of house specialities -- house smoked pastrami-style salmon, shrimp Pierrade and braised oxtail.

The shrimp are marinated with herbs and cooked at the table on a preheated stone. Menzel's wife, Ann, told me she frequently orders two portions of the succulent shrimp as dinner.

The meat of the braised oxtail was pulled from the bone and nestled in a warm truffled brioche -- on the side was a small salad of arugula. Such an elegant service for the homey, rich-flavored oxtail is seldom seen in such an elegant dining room.

One of the most requested appetizers is the smashing Portofino Stravaganza for two or more ($22 per person) -- the oysters, clams, crab, lobster, shrimp, mussels and ceviche, arrive in a tall, footed epergne-like server presented like precious jewels. Strands of fresh seaweed are strewn over the chilled seafood, giving it the look of a still-life painting.

All pastas ($18-$29) may be ordered with a choice of marinara, Bolognese or Alfredo sauce. The selection includes lobster Fra diavolo, gnocchi with sage and prosciutto, ravioli with wild mushrooms, and linguini with fresh clams.

It has been a long time since I've eaten a Dover sole as large and as fine as the one at Portofino. The sole ($34) was brought to the table before being expertly deboned by the captain. It was superb. I had ordered it without sauce, but could have had it with a classic butter sauce or with mushrooms, cream and Madeira, finished at the table. A fricassee of seafood, roasted red snapper, sauteed salmon, grilled striped bass, Maine lobster and other seafood are other choices ($25 to market price).

Also offered are veal dishes ($28-$32), including a classic osso bucco and Parmigiana; a Briand original, a braised lamb shank served in a casserole with pearl pasta (Israeli cous cous), zucchini and fresh thyme; steaks and free-range chicken ($24-$32). The lamb shank is another favorite.

Chateaubriand, rack of lamb and marinated, roasted prime rib for two ($59-$64) are beautifully presented with a bounty of vegetables.

A separate dessert menu (each item is $8) offers such temptations as warm chocolate cake, Arnauld's exquisite creme brulee and a signature baked Alaska for two or more as well as a host of choice after-dinner drinks -- grappa, cognac, port and sherry.

Portofino Chef Olivier DuBreuil is a handsome young Frenchman who cooks with flair and taste. Service under maitre d' Henry Grzyb is excellent.

Dinner service at Portofino is 6-11 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. For reservations, call 733-4444.