Columnist Muriel Stevens: ‘Epicurean’ a tasty event

Friday, June 27, 1997 | 11:17 a.m.

EXQUISITE FOOD displays whetted the appetites of guests as they entered the MGM Grand Adventures theme park Tuesday evening for the "Epicurean Affair."

This tribute to Las Vegas dining is always the kickoff for the Las Vegas International Hotel & Restaurant Show which is presented annually by the Nevada Hotel & Motel Association and Nevada Restaurant Association.

Among this year's participants were: Caesar's Magical Palace, Bally's Las Vegas, Golden Nugget, Las Vegas Hilton, Lawry's The Prime Rib, Big Dog's Hospitality Group, Boulder Station and Palace Station (separate exhibits), Emeril's, Garduno's at the Fiesta, Mayflower Cuisinier, Ricardo's (soon to open in the MGM), Sam's Town, Crown Plaza Hotel, the Desert Inn, the Mirage, Treasure Island and more.

The ice carvings and table decorations at the tables were remarkable.

At the Desert Inn display a counter of ice embedded with rows of fresh fruits was topped with a display of melons carved into exotic flowers and birds by garde mange Ben Acac. Four-foot-long oval platters overflowed with antipasti from Portofino Italian restaurant. The D.I.'s Monte Carlo restaurant's tables were draped with gold lame over black cloths and dressed with silver candelabra and flowers. Chefs stood by to cook dishes to order, including chocolate crepes.

Host hotel, the MGM, had a huge area that showcased two beautiful lion cubs in a special habitat, many food offerings and an example of the art of the garde mange that was simply staggering. For more than two months, garde mange Valentina Columbo and at least 25 of the culinary staff had worked on a near-life-size replica of a lion built over hand-carved Styrofoam. The lifelike lion stood on a base made from cloves; the body was toasted almonds dipped in sugar syrup -- each almond was applied individually; features on the realistic face were made of poppy seeds and sugar syrup; the mane was strands of wheat, applied one at a time. The sugar syrup gave the lion stability throughout the very warm evening; the talented garde mange and staff gave it life.

Caesars Palace Neros restaurant chef Mario Capone was charming. Attractive young women crowded the booth, as much for the attention of the handsome young chef as for the food, which was buono. The Magical Empire offered a host of delectable desserts.

The Mirage had an outstanding display of food accented with a fiery dragon ice carving. Placed to the side of the display was a convection oven where a chef baked individual chocolate souffles. Accompanying the delicious desserts were raspberry whipped cream, raspberry sauce, custard sauce and an assortment of fresh berries.

The Rio's display was gorgeous, stretching almost as far as the eye could see. Dubbed "The Rio House of VooDoo" as a tribute to their newest restaurant, the outstanding food selection also included dishes from Napa, Mama Marie's Cucina, Mask, Fiore and Toscano Bakery. On hand to greet guests were many Rio chefs including: Jean-Louis Palladin, Italia Boldieri and Brenda Hitchins. Among the many foods offered were cornbread and crabmeat-stuffed soft shell crabs, lobster claws, cold shrimp and Alaskan king crab legs, currant vodka-cured salmon, venison grenadine with wild mushroom strudel, noisettes of pepper-crusted wild boar and eggplant medallions from Mama Marie's.

Sam's Town's train station setting featured Mexican foods from Willie and Jose's; Mortoni's at the Hard Rock hotel-casino brought along the signature neon lighted guitar; Emeril's shucked many more than a peck of fresh oysters; Lawry's chefs Michael Ty and Drew Del Vecchio carved a heap of prime rib from the silver carts; Treasure Island offered a treasure chest of delectable desserts and pirate-garbed servers and the Crown Plaza offered a hoedown setting and plenty of good country grub -- fried chicken and all the fixin's and slices of cold watermelon.

Such pleasures, such flavors, such gluttony!

The park setting was lovely and fun, but the time has come to take this eating extravaganza indoors. June is too warm, even after sundown, for such a big food event. Maybe next time.

More Show

The two-day show opened opened the next day at the Convention Center with chefs from around the world competing in the culinary salon for coveted gold, silver and bronze medals. More than 50 chefs vied for the honors.

Each year there are new and exciting additions. For the first time the associations sponsored a Hospitality Job Fair. It was open to everyone. Also new were the bed-making competition and table-setting Olympics.

There were many educational seminars conducted by members of UNLV's Hotel Management college, and national hotel executives.

Highlighting the event is the distinguished Hospitality Awards Luncheon where the recipients of the Hotelier of the Year and Restaurateur of the Year awards are announced.

Congratulations to MGM President Terry Lanni, Hotelier of the Year. Lanni was unable to attend, but accepted the honor via video tape. Debbie Lanni, his wife, accepted the award for him.

Reno restaurateur John Leonudakis, whose Rapscallion restaurant is recognized internationally, was Restaurateur of the Year.

Chairman Service Awards were given to Desert Inn President Brian Menzel and to Swenson's Marvin Price.

Presiding over the luncheon was Michael Sansbury of the Mirage who is chairman of the board of NHMA; keynote speakers were William "Bill" Fisher, President and CEO of the American Hotel and Motel Association, and Tom Kershow, Chairman of the Board of the National Restaurant Association.

NHMA and NRA President Van Heffner and Heinz Blaume (Harvey's Resort), NRA chairman of the board, orchestrated the awards program.

It was a splendid effort and an excellent show.