Columnist Muriel Stevens: Cafe Lago cooks up exquisite culinary experience

Friday, July 18, 1997 | 12:07 p.m.

An invitation to join friends for lunch at Cafe Lago was an invitation to pure bliss.

Every now and then an unexpected delicious dining experience, in the least likely location, comes along. Cafe Lago is located in the Gourmet Plaza at 8400 West Sahara. Situated all by itself is the two store Plaza. Joined together is a gourmet food and wine shop with a good selection of imported cheeses and pates, and the adjacent, delightful Cafe Lago.

It is a store front restaurant with a difference. The decor is charming, a blend of painted walls stenciled sparsely, yet effectively, with climbing vines intertwined with faux leaves. It's a tranquil, appealing scene.

Chef/owner Peter Mastrion specializes in the dishes of Northern Italy and the Mediterranean, but gives them his own interpretation. Cafe Lago could remove the salt and pepper shakers from the table, the seasoning of each dish is so good.

All of the food is homemade, including the bread. Good bread defines a restaurant. Mastrion's crusty loaf has a texture so fine it's like a delicate cake, without the sweetness. A refrigerated showcase at the entrance is filled with bowls of the house special fish salad made of tender calamari and conch, chopped shrimp, slivered celery and a delicious blend of spices and garlic. Bowls of roasted peppers, jumbo shrimp, homemade mozzarella and other tasty chilled starters fill the case. It's a good sign of what's to come.

Two separate menus are offered for lunch and dinner. Lunch includes salads and pizzas, made with the bread dough, ($4.50-$7.25); chilled seafood and steamers ($6.95-$9.95); a selection of pastas ($6.95-$9.95); sandwiches that can also be ordered as a platter ($6.50-$9.95); and daily specials listed on a blackboard. Portions are generous.

Dinner prices are slightly higher, the menu is much larger and so are the portions.

Since this was my first visit to my friends favorite eatery they ordered with abandon. I stopped protesting the number of dishes after one bite. First came a platter of clams oreganata and stuffed shrimp. Then some of the fish salad. The steamed, green-tipped mussels in wine sauce were sweet and tender, served on the half shell so they were easy to eat. Penne puttenesca with chicken breast had a gentle bite and rich flavor, the chicken with spinach and garlic over penne is a garlic lovers ideal, a platter of Black Angus New York steak cut pizziola with mushrooms and roasted peppers was exceptional.

After such a satisfying, delicious meal surely dessert was out of the question? Not so, said my gluttonous friends. We'll just take one bite of each. Can't we just take one bite of one? It was hopeless; they insisted on ordering three of their favorites -- double chocolate-dipped strawberries with a mascarpone sauce, delicate Italian cheesecake made with mascarpone and ricotto cheeses, and arguably the best authentic tiramisu tasted outside of Italy ($4.50). All of my good intentions got stuck in the irresistible tiramisu.

Pastry chef Pedro Corona uses the finest ingredients. The chocolate on the freshly dipped strawberries was exquisite.

Everything on Cafe Lago's menus are available for takeout. Except for the cold dishes everything is made to order so it would be wise to order ahead.

Cafe Lago serves beer and wine only. The selection includes wines requested by their diners. It's another indication of the caring relationship Mastrion and his staff have with their patrons.

Cafe Lago seats 60 only and does not accept reservations. We arrived for lunch just before noon. Minutes after, the dining room was full.

Lunch hours are 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner, 3-10 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday. Call, 255-1955 for additional information.

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Limericks at Fitzgerald's

A limerick is a humorous poem with five lines of verse. Limericks Steakhouse at Fitzgerald's, downtown will make you smile, too.

This castle-like dining room with deep booths and black and gold decor is really a steakhouse. Featured are dry-aged steaks and chops hand-cut in Fitzgerald's butcher shop. The dry-aging process takes two to three weeks and results in a rich and tender steak.

Limericks is currently featuring a 16-ounce porterhouse steak dinner for just $8.95. Included is the hand-cut steak, a special house salad, fresh vegetables, a baked potato, and rolls. Other dinners average $15-$20 per person.

Limericks Steakhouse serves dinner Thursday through Monday, 5-11 p.m. For reservations call 388-2460.