Columnist Muriel Stevens: Have your cake and time, too

Wednesday, Oct. 23, 1996 | 11:59 a.m.

THERE'S NOTHING better than a delectable homemade cake, but who's got time these days to make one? For the answer, turn to "The New Good Cake Book: Over 125 Delicious Recipes That Can Be Prepared in 30 Minutes or Less" by Diane Dalsass (Norton, $22.50).

Dalsass, who has been baking at least one cake a week for more than 20 years, seldom repeats a recipe. Her cakes are appealing, easy-to-make delights. Many ship well, so would make delicious gifts.

In keeping with the trend toward lower-fat intake, there is a chapter of reduced-fat cakes. But, says the enthusiastic cake maven, "cake was never intended to be a health food." Alas, it's true.

Nevertheless, she gives some very good tips on reducing fat.

Dalsass encourages the home baker to improvise and to adjust her recipes to individual tastes. Good idea, especially for new bakers who are easily intimidated. The flexibility she encourages can be applied to any kind of cooking.

"The New Good Cake Book" is a tasty collection of recipes ideal for any-level home baker.

Grandmother's Jam Squares

My grandmother was a decidedly unadventuresome cook. The few recipes she found that she liked, she made again and again for years on end. Unfortunately, most of these are not worth passing along. But this recipe ... should most definitely be recorded for posterity. These jam squares are in two layers: a rich butter-and-egg-yolk base is spread with jam and then topped with a light meringue.

Meringue topping:

2 egg whites

1/2 c. sugar

1/4 tsp cinnamon

1/2 c. finely chopped walnuts

Base:

1 stick ( 1/2 cup) butter or margarine, softened (try to use at least half butter)

1/2 c. confectioners' sugar

2 egg yolks

1 c. flour

2/3 c. jam (see Note)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour an 8-inch square baking pan. To make the meringue topping: In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff. Gradually beat in the sugar until the mixture is glossy. Beat in the cinnamon and walnuts and set aside.

To make the base: In another bowl, cream the butter with the confectioners' sugar until the sugar is fully incorporated. Beat in the egg yolks, then the flour. Pat the dough evenly in the prepared pan. Bake for 12 minutes.

Remove the pan from the oven and spread the jam evenly over the base layer. Spread the meringue topping over the jam. Return the pan to the oven, and bake 20 minutes longer. Transfer the pan to a rack to cool. When cool, cut into squares. Makes 25 squares.

Note: Use any jam; strawberry, apricot and raspberry all work well.

Two-Pound Chocolate Bars

1 lb semisweet chocolate

1/2 stick (4 tablespoons) butter or margarine

4 eggs

1 1/2 c. sugar

1 Tbs vanilla

1 Tbs instant coffee powder, dissolved in 1 tsp water

1/4 c. flour

1 tsp baking powder

1/8 tsp salt

1 lb (2 1/2 cups) semisweet chocolate, processed in the food processor to make large chucks, or semisweet chocolate morsels

In a saucepan, melt the 1 pound semisweet chocolate with the butter, stirring occasionally. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a 9x13 baking pan.

In a large bowl, beat the eggs. Gradually beat in the sugar until the mixture is thick and pale. Beat in the melted chocolate, vanilla and dissolved coffee. In a small bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder and salt. Add to the chocolate mixture, stirring until the dry ingredients are incorporated. Stir in the chocolate chunks or morsels.

Spread the batter evenly in the prepared pan. Bake the bars for 25 to 30 minutes. The bars will be shiny on top, and a toothpick inserted in the center will come out almost, but not completely, clean. Transfer the pan to a rack to cool. When cool, cut into bars. Makes 32 bars.

New-Way Gingerbread

This spicy, dark gingerbread provides the perfect disguise for the pureed prunes, which replace an entire stick of butter. This gingerbread is so delicious, I doubt anyone will distinguish it from the traditional gingerbread. New-Way Gingerbread can be served from the oven, plain, or with a dollop of applesauce. For a real treat, let the cake cool completely, then cover it with Dark Chocolate Glaze.

ethird c. (5ethird tablespoons) butter or margarine, softened

1/2 c. pureed prunes

3/4 c. brown sugar, preferably dark

3/4 c. molasses

2 eggs

1 1/2 c. flour

1 1/4 c. whole-wheat flour

1 tsp cinnamon

1 tsp ginger

1/4 tsp ground cloves

1 tsp baking soda

1 c. hot black coffee

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a 9x13-inch baking pan. In a large bowl, cream the butter and pureed prunes with the brown sugar and molasses until the sugar is fully incorporated. Beat in the eggs.

In another bowl, stir together the flour, whole-wheat flour, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and baking soda. Add to the creamed mixture along with the coffee, stirring until the dry ingredients are incorporated. Spread the batter evenly in the prepared pan. Bake the cake for 40 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a rack to cool. Serves 16.

Dark Chocolate Glaze

Almost fat-free, this dark, intensely chocolate glaze takes only minutes to make and enhances any cake that goes well with chocolate.

1/4 c. strong black coffee

1/2 c. unsweetened cocoa powder

1 tsp butter or margarine

1/2 c. brown sugar, preferably dark

In a small saucepan, combine all the ingredients. Cook over a low heat, stirring, until the mixture is smooth. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool slightly. Pour the glaze over the cake, letting some glaze drip down the sides. Makes enough glaze for a 9x13-inch cake or a tube cake.