Columnist Muriel Stevens: Mumm is the word at champagne dinner

Friday, Nov. 8, 1996 | 11:59 a.m.

THE DINNER hosted by Champagne Mumm Tuesday night at the Rio was a gastronome's delight.

Superstar Chef Paul Bocuse, who represents Mumm, and special guest chef, Jean Louis Palladin, who is part of the Rio's restaurant team, created a menu that paired beautifully with the Mumm champagnes. Assisting the chefs was another Rio restaurant consultant, Michael Ginor.

During the reception, guests enjoyed Mumm de Cremant, small Maryland crab cakes, squares of spinach and smoked salmon terrine and quail eggs with osetra caviar, all conceived by Palladin.

The dinner that followed was a tribute to the fall season and to Mumm's champagnes. At each place was a row of crystal flutes just waiting to be filled with the effervescent wines.

Palladin's creamy fresh chestnut soup, studded with bits of chestnut, served atop a quenelle and rounds of savory duck sausage was comforting and delicious. So was his warm root-vegetable salad with slices of Maine lobster and a splash of sauce made from the lobster coral. A variety of fresh root vegetables pared into "olives" cascaded over and under the lobster. Accompanying champagnes were Mumm Cordon Rouge et Noix and Cordon Rouge Vintage 1989.

Next came two courses created by Bocuse. His version of salmon en croute was elegant and delicate. A thin slice of Atlantic salmon was capped with an ethereal pastry. With it an unctuous, perfect, sauce Bernaise redolent with fresh tarragon, and glasses of Mumm Cordon Rouge, N.V.

The next course was an exemplary offering from the masterful Bocuse; roasted rare loin of venison topped with a velvet-textured slice of fresh Hudson Valley foie gras, slices of fresh black truffles, porcini, and garnished with a thick swirl of rich red-wine black truffle sauce -- formidable! With it, Sterling Vineyard's "Diamond Mountain Ranch" Cabernet Sauvignon 1993.

Dessert, created by the Rio's Executive Pastry Chef Brenda Hitchins was a fine counterpoint to the extravagant meal. A Symphony of Quince was a delightful sampler plate of sweets made with quince and poached slices of the apple-like fruit. It was charming in its simplicity and utterly delectable. Hitchins also made the delicious bite-size lemon and chocolate tarts and cookies that were served with the Mumm "Carte Classique" Extra Dry.

Wine service, under the supervision of Rio Master Sommelier Barrie Larvin, was expert and caring.

Rio Hotel's founder Tony Marnell is to be commended for encouraging the advancement of the culinary arts through such delicious events.

Philippe Nusswitz (Seagram C & E Wine Co.), ambassador international for Champagne Mumm, who accompanies Bocuse and translates for him, was a charming host. Also representing the Seagram Chateau & Estate Wine Co. and Mumm Champagne was John Katopodis.

Among those from the hospitality industry enjoying the smashing repast were: Camille and Larry Ruvo, Mark Ervin, Sandra and Brian O'Shields, Linda and Lou Silvestri, Arnauld Briand, Steve Delmont, Mario Capone, Hilary and Terje Torgerson, Patty and Rudy McMillan, Marcy and Lloyd Wentzel, Grace and Bob Nickels, Jon Simmons, Frank Rigley, Werner Zefferer, Dennis Khanh, Grace and John Thacker, Gustav Mauler, Patty and John Morocco, Tony McDonald, Gamal Aziz, Menzie Heroian, Linda and Kevin Vogt, Sean Ellis, Phil Barnett, Gayle Moore, Martin Moore, Steve Arcana, Mark Anderson, Denise and Ed Fasulo, Sean LeWinter, Brian Murphy, Dominic Borra, Michael Severino and many more.

Bocuse was in his element. He posed for photos and autographed the menu cards.

As a parting gift, each guest received a bottle of Mumm de Cremant autographed by Bocuse.

Motown in LV

Motown Cafe Las Vegas, our latest themed restaurant, will hold groundbreaking ceremonies in New York-New York hotel-casino on Nov. 12. The star-studded ceremony will feature the popular rhythm-and-blues artists the Temptations. The groundbreaking coincides with the one-year anniversary of the New York City Motown Cafe, which, in such a short time, has become so popular.

Like the original, the Las Vegas Motown Cafe will be filled with memorabilia identified with the Motown name. Among the historical items are the original sequin jackets worn by the Temptations, a Diana Ross gown from "Lady Sings the Blues," Marvin Gaye's pajamas and a treasure trove more.

Of course, the menu follows the theme. Open the cover of what appears to be a Temptations album to find the food carte. Inside the jacket sleeves are discs offering drinks named for songs, logo merchandise information and more. Food choices are American with soul-food influences. It's all part of the Motown Cafe ambience. Ribs, catfish fingers, chicken, waffles and other homespun specialities, and a host of favorite American fare are priced competitively.

Motown Cafe will open when the New York-New York opens Jan. 3.

Food and art

Friends of the Donna Beam Gallery at UNLV will serve up a celebration of taste, sight and sound Nov. 19 prior to the Itzhak Perlman performance at Artemis Ham Hall.

In addition to being able to view the work of internationally acclaimed artist David Reed, dinner will be served in the gallery at 6:30 p.m. Dinner, priced at $35 (actual cost to the gallery) includes hors d' oeuvre, salad, a choice of prime rib au jus or chicken Marsala, dessert and wine.

Space is limited to 70 diners, so don't delay. For reservations, call Jerry Schefcik, 895-3893. If successful, this first-time event will be repeated.

Dinner price does not include a ticket to the Perlman performance, so BYOT.

Job call

The sports-themed Official All Star Cafe Las Vegas, opening next month in the Showcase Mall in front of the MGM Grand, is seeking employees for all departments. Applications and interviews will take place in Bally's through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. in the meeting rooms on the main lobby level (hours today end at 4 p.m.). The company is seeking exciting, enthusiastic people. If you fill the bill, stop by for an interview.

All Star Cafe is owned by Andre Agassi, Wayne Gretsky, Ken Griffey Jr., Joe Montana, Shaquille O'Neal and Monica Seles.